There was too much goodness in Ibiza to fit into one post, so here's Part 2!
As I start to write this Ibiza recap, now back in Canadian temps and just seconds from hearing about a "snow squall" warning, I ask myself, "Was self-inflicted emotional torture on the to do list today?!" It's so hard to have experienced the gorgeous and carefree island of Ibiza and not wish you had stayed much longer (or never left!).
Here's Part 1 of some of my favorite moments in stunning Ibiza:
*Originally published on W Network’s W Dish (October 2015)
“The Best Place In the World” - I always found this totally subjective and absolutely personal accolade that’s thrown around year after year kind of silly. At the same time, I must admit, when I do come across this type of headline, it does spark a curiosity in me. To my delightful surprise, Palma de Mallorca was voted the best place to live in the world by UK publication, The Sunday Times, earlier this year, and a few weeks ago, I was invited by the Spanish tourism board to explore the Balearic Islands, including you guessed it, PALMA DE MALLORCA. Coming from Toronto, another place that’s had its share of top titles this year (Best City To Live In by The Economist and Most Liveable City by Metropolis Magazine), I saw this as an opportunity to see what this title was worth – and let’s be honest here, an opportunity for me to escape the impending rainy grayness for the warm Mediterranean sunshine and sparkling turquoise waters. I think we already know the outcome of this trip. Pure. Bliss. As the largest Balearic island that’s likened to a little Barcelona and receives over 300 days of sunshine a year, how can it not be, right?
But for me, the beauty of Palma was not just the city itself but also the ability to escape to its captivating surrounding areas like Deià and Sòller that are just a short road trip away. Here are some of my favorite moments discovering “the best place to live in the world” AKA Palma de Mallorca and beyond.
LOCKED IN A MOMENT IN TIME
Deià is circled by stunning views of the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains, a UNESCO heritage site. On the top of my wish list in Mallorca was to visit the La Residencia villas in Deià and meet the adorable resident donkeys that have had a significant role in the history of the island and take part in a traditional Mallorcan cooking lesson and lunch in the countryside.
The trail to the top of the hill where Chef Nicolas Gámbón awaits at a stone shepherd’s hut is such a beautiful hike and a good workout before the giant “picnic” feast. At lunch, I watched Chef Gámbón make pa amb tomàquet or pan con tomate (tomato garlic bread with olive oil) before a setting of delicious locally cured meats, cheeses and olives. In Mallorca, pa amb tomàquet is prepared with tomatoes called tomàtiga de ramellet, a specific vine tomato used for this bread. My favorite dish that I can’t stop thinking about is the sobrassada sausage that’s so soft that it spreads on the tomato bread like pâté and then drizzled with local honey. Paired with the gorgeous and lush country backdrop, this is definitely a moment in time I wouldn’t mind being locked in for a while.
THE FRESHNESS
The air, the water, the food - everything and everywhere in Mallorca is fresh and there’s no shortage of it either. There’s 550km of coastline and almost 300 beaches around it. You have to see the cliffs of Formentor and an awesome lookout point to do so is at Es Mirador d’Es Colomer in Pollença - you can’t help but get goosebumps looking at this grand view.
Of course, my favorite type of freshness is the kind you can eat. From the halibut stew with rice and calamari at Nixe Palace to the tumbet at OD Port Portals, paired with the bright citrus flavors of the orange ensaimada pastries in Sòller, you better have remembered to pack your stretchy pants.
ENDLESS INSPIRATION
The light! “Mallorca, you give good sky,” I found myself saying numerous times. Head south to see that enchanting light touch the white-sand beaches, north for hikes on epic mountain trails, or west for crystal blue seas crashing onto dramatic cliffs. It’s no wonder so many artists have escaped to Mallorca.
Joan Mirò and Robert Graves are just two of the many talented artists who have found great inspiration and refuge in Mallorca. You can visit writer Robert Graves’ home in Deià and in Palma, you can take in one of my favorite spots in the city, the Fundaciò Pilar I Joan Mirò, an extensive museum, studio, and group of buildings dedicated to the work of Joan Mirò. From his paintings and drawings to upholstery and glass works, Mirò’s diverse range and impact on surrealism is out of this world and unbelievably moving.
THE EASE
When it comes to transportation I’m lazy AF, so I loved that in Palma you can pretty much get around everywhere you need to within 20 minutes. Maybe this plays a huge part in why there’s such a chill vibe here - there’s an ease and emphasis on quality of life that makes the residents genuinely pleasant (I’m sure the daily sunshine helps too).
The choice to eat well is also easy – the results of the intense fishing and farming in Mallorca are delicious – as is the opportunity to embrace health and wellness. At the breathtaking Son Brull in Pollença, I was treated to a relaxing massage where my therapist Marie José’s magical hands eased my terrible knots while I learned about the benefits of their in-house grown citrus, almonds, and olive oils. Remember when I said, pure bliss? Yup, this is it.
As a visitor to any new city, it’s a bit like living in a bubble; the sun shines brighter, the food tastes better, and everything is just so much more exciting. So, beyond my tourist goggles, I can’t really say whether Palma is THE best place to live in the world but is it a pretty perfect place to visit? Oh, heck yeah.
MORE ON MALLORCA:
MALLORCA HIGHLIGHTS: PALMA
MALLORCA HIGHLIGHTS: DEIA
MALLORCA HIGHLIGHTS: SOLLER
MALLORCA HIGHLIGHTS: ARTA AND POLLENCA
Eating in the Mediterranean is such a treat and I always count my lucky stars each time I get to do so - the fresh seafood, the sweet sun-soaked tomatoes... THE GELATO. So, it's no shocker that you can eat well pretty easily in Mallorca. Every meal I had always started with perfectly fried calamari and a platter of jamón ibérico because why not. Here are some of the best eats I had on the trip.
Description: Our much-loved donkeys—Pancho, Luna and Alba—will accompany you on a trek through our olive groves. Admire the tranquil landscape of the Tramuntana Mountains before stopping for an unforgettable picnic lunch in a stone shepherd’s hut.
- The Donkey Trail at Belmond La Residencia.
When looking to treat yourself in Mallorca, Son Brull in Pollença is a no-brainer. Surrounded by the lush green countryside, I was captivated by the immaculately kept property and sleek modern design of the interior. I especially love how almost all the products they use at the spa and in the kitchen are in-house produced and grown right from their backyard. Here's a rundown of my quick spa and dine break at Son Brull.
Predictably, the last two weeks in Mallorca, Ibiza and Madrid were absolutely delicious, sunny, and gorgeous and I’m currently going through major jamon and sunshine withdrawal. I felt like I’d been talking about going on this trip for ages, having been planning the itinerary with the Spanish tourism board since earlier this year, so it made finally flying to Spain even more gratifying. In the next few weeks, I’ll be writing a series of stories about my time in the Balearic Islands (first one will be posted on W Dish this month) but in the meantime, here are some of my favorite moments from Palma de Mallorca.
If you're vacationing in L.A. this summer, I highly recommend a weekend getaway to the Greater Palm Springs area including Joshua Tree, Palm Desert and Pioneertown. Read up on how to do it up with my latest guide on Trivago.
One of the many envious reasons why being in Los Angeles is the absolute best is its close proximity to dreamy Californian getaways. When in L.A. and wanting a little vacay within a vacay, there’s no better escape than a fun 2 to 3 hour road trip with a bunch of pals to Palm Springs, making fun pit stops in Palm Desert and Joshua Tree. Here’s an essential hit list to make the most of a desert weekend getaway.
What to See
To really get the vast scope of the incredible beauty of the Greater Palm Springs area and beyond, take an adventurous 8,516 feet ride up the Aerial Tramway to the grand Mt. San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness Area. The 10-minute ride on the rotating tramcar is pure eye candy. While the tram takes you through the Mexican Sonoran Desert on the way to the Alpine wilderness, you’ll notice the spectacular nature and its inhabitants below, including beautiful yucca, prickly pears, Kit foxes and Great Horned Owls.
Once on top, you can embark on one of the many inspiring hiking trails that covers 14,000-acres of the park and take in the stunning views from the Mountain Station and its various scenic restaurants.
On one of your getaway days, you must make time to stop and drive through Joshua Tree National Park, which is only about an hour away but you’ll feel like you’re on another planet. My favorite time to hike (or drive, no judgment here!) through the park is before sundown as there is nothing more awe-inspiring than a desert sunset over those gorgeous rocks and Joshua Trees that cover the land. It really does take your breath away.
While you’re in the area, also make sure to swing by the Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Art Museum of Assemblage Sculpture in the town of Joshua Tree. Credited with re-defining black artistic consciousness through his work, you can see firsthand Purifoy’s larger than life installations over 10-acres of desert land.
What to Do
For necessary shopping therapy hit the nearby Uptown Design District for vintage fashion and furniture finds and the glorious mile-long El Paseo shopping avenue in Palm Desert. El Paseo is the Rodeo of the desert where you’ll find independent boutiques, top designer retailers, spas, and home décor shops.
After shopping up a storm, soothe with a spa break at SpaTerre where you can choose from a variety of special treatments like the Volcanic Earth Clay Ritual, which includes a detoxifying body mask and a Balinese massage, and the Native Desert Sage that starts with an exfoliating body polish and ends with a relaxing desert sage oil body massage.
Where to Eat and Drink
There’s no lack of options when it comes to the edibles in Palm Springs. Cheeky’s and Hacienda Cantina & Beach Club serves up delicious brunch fare—the latter’s Huevos Benedictos on jalapeño cornbread is worth the drive alone.
Since you’ll be pretty full from brunch, a lighter snack or lunch later in the day is ideal. Try the fresh Cali-Italian goodness at Appetito or Pie for the People for a great slice of pizza while you’re in Joshua Tree refueling post-hike.
For dinner, treat yourself to the authentic Basque tapas of renowned Iron Chef Jose Garces at Tinto in the Saguaro hotel, the playful bites (like the banh mi burger) at Vietnamese-American joint Rooster and the Pig, or the delicious Californian diner offerings such as buttermilk fried Jidori chicken and eggplant quinoa fritters at King’s Highway at Ace Hotel.
On the day you’re in JT, the one stop you must make in the evening for eats and drinks is the long-standing staple and always fun, Pappy & Harriet’s in Pioneertown. The BBQ pulled pork sandwich with a side of mac and cheese surely hits the spot every time and the accompanying nightly live bands really helps set the desert-time mood.
Back in Palm Springs, you can jump on the free BUZZ trolley (because drinking responsibly is always on trend) and go on a little bar hop with cocktail stops at speakeasy Bootlegger Tiki, the chill, simply named Bar, and classic old-Hollywood mainstay, Melvyn’s at Ingleside Inn.
Where to Stay
If you’re craving something minimalistic and chic The Amado and rustic Sparrows Lodge are also excellent options.
We've all been there - traveling with friends can create some of the highest and lowest life moments. To pay it forward, I wrote a handy guide for Refinery29 on what to look for (and most importantly, avoid!) in a travel buddy. Take a read...
If you're still trying to decide where to go away this summer, check out my latest guide for Trivago. The Hunt: Where to Wine and Dine in Istria, Croatia.
If you’re looking to plan your next unique gastronomic adventure, look no further than Istria, Croatia. It’s the best combination of rich history with its romantic quaint streets and stunning landscape, offering the best of Green Istria (AKA the interior’s gorgeous wild vegetables that grow in the lush green meadows, forests and rolling hills) and Blue Istria (AKA the sparkly coastline’s extremely fresh Adriatic fish, clams, octopus and many more seafood delights). To help you wine and dine through the tastiest part of Croatia at all hours of the day, try hunting down my favorite Istrian eats and drinks.
Breakfast
I like to start my day with a hearty breakfast at my hotel and luckily my beautiful home in Rovinj, Hotel Lone, serves an abundance of lovely Croatian breakfast selections such as the picturesque Volcano Egg. So light, yet creamy. To break-up your breakfast routine, the soft scramble truffle eggs with truffle cheese and truffle salami to start at Karlić Tartufi in Paladini, Buzet is beyond delicious and totally addictive. Once you go truffle everything, you never go back.
Pit Stops
Park Histria Aromatica in Golaš is an essential stop if you love everything natural. Self-described as “a medieval aromatharium, a place where herbal preparations for health and beauty are designed and sold.” There’s 25 acres of lavender, sage and marigold fields with walkways that take you through plantations, gardens and over 300 species of domestic aromatic spice and medicinal herbs, olive groves and vineyards. After hitting the fascinating lab inside the Aromatica building, indulge in some wine and grappa at the restaurant, which serves simple Mediterranean dishes made from season ingredients, and finish with a visit to the shop for organic tea and honey to take home as gifts.
Ipša in Ipši has been ranked second to Tuscany for the high-quality production of its extra-virgin olive oil in the last five years by Flos Olei, a prestigious Italian guide to the olive oils of the world, so if you’re going to be schooled on the famous Istrian olive oil, Ipša is the place to visit for an in-depth tasting and lesson.
You can’t visit Istria and not stop by the renowned Zigante Tartufi restaurant + shop in Buzet. In 1999, Giancarlo Zigante, along with his dog Diana, proudly found the largest white truffle in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records.
Lunch
Having nibbled and sipped though many tasty pit stops, the slow food restaurant, Toklarija in Buzet, is the perfect relaxed lunch spot. Toklaija is operated by a father-son duo and you will fall in love with the cozy cottage location that was once an olive mill. The food is refined rustic, with dishes like fresh cow cheese with sausage and pickled dandelion buds, and suckling pig with ricotta and prosciutto ravioli.
My favorite dish on the entire trip was at the seafood haunt Konoba Cok in Novigrad. The dish? An incredibly simple sea bass carpaccio drowning in local olive oil and salt and pepper. It just shows that when you have exceptionally fresh, high-quality ingredients, you don’t need a lot of fuss. Another highlight was Konoba Cok’s grilled octopus on asparagus salad with soft shredded egg.
Every dish I tried in Istria incorporated ingredients straight from the farm but if you want really immediate farm to mouth, you must try asparagus foraging with San Tommaso in Golaš. One moment, you’re picking wild asparagus and the next moment, said asparagus are being cooking into a creamy risotto, which of course, can be enjoyed with a variety of local San Tommaso wine.
Pit Stops
With Istria’s famous mineral-rich white and red soil and Mediterranean temps, the wine in this region is undeniable and wine-tastings are so much fun here. Try the entertaining Degrassi vineyards in Savudrija and the historic and grand Kozlovic winery in Momjan. Of the almost 65 different wines that I tasted in Istria, my favorite was the Uroboros malvasia (a light white that tastes like a warm campfire) from the modern estate of Trapan Wine Station in Šišan.
Snacks
Not a lie, I full-on had two-scoops of gelato stuffed into a croissant and a Hugo cocktail (sparkling white wine, mint and lime) at Vitriol Caffe & Bar in Novigrad as a quick snack break before lunch. Needless to say “hangry” was not an emotion felt on this trip. With the huge Italian influence in Istria, a pizza break is also pretty essential. One of the oldest and best-known spots is Pizzeria Jupiter in the centre of Pula. Da Sergio and Pizzeria Roma in Rovinj, and Pizzeria Nono in Poreč are also fantastic for a slice.
Dinner
You can’t be in Istria, surrounded by the breathtaking Adriatic Sea and not have a sunset dinner by the water. To do it best, book a table by the seaside rocks at La Puntulina in Rovinj—the sunset views in Rovinj are downright praise-worthy.
For classy sophisticated times, head to Milan in Pula where they serve up elegant seafood like sea bass fillet al vapore and sepia risotto with sliced calamari. If you really want to treat yourself, head to Savudrija where head chef of Kanova, Zoran Čobanov will wow you with innovative dishes like Istrian new fritaja with black truffle and toasted Adriatic fish filet on sepia ink sponge and vongole clams. The rooftop views where you can look across to Italy and Slovenia are pretty unbeatable.
For a meaty indulgence/break from all the amazing seafood, I loved the home-cooked goodness of Stari podrum in Momjan. Stari podrum has the sweetest mother-daughter duo running the restaurant and you can really taste the love poured into each dish. There’s a salad that’s topped with thinly sliced grilled beef (grass-fed, no doubt), that’s cooked so perfectly that it actually felt like it melted in my mouth. So. Good.
Start planning your Istrian culinary journey with one of these sweet spots to rest your head. Happy wining and dining, živjeli!
MORE ON ISTRIA:
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
My interview with Chefs Nick Liu (DaiLo/LoPan) and Craig Wong (Patois) about growing up Hakka for the incredible food magazine, The Cleaver Quarterly is out now. Click here to order an issue.
It's been a personal mission of mine to spotlight the Hakka experience and its influence on the culinary scene... read it in full below!
Read my latest travel essay on W Dish
Vacations are meant to be a break from your everyday hectic workweek and life in general, right? Right. But if you're like me and you end up over-listing things to do and see, your brain doesn't really get the rest it deserves. Having traveled around the globe multiple times over, I’ve taken away one very important tip: to take a hike. As someone who has almost zero athletic ability, I relish at walking everywhere and always try to fit in a hike wherever I go, to reflect and take in a break from my itinerary - I know, I know, you’re still “planning” by scheduling in a hike, but baby steps, people. So, plan a morning or afternoon where you can turn off your phone and your brain, and get a little workout in there while you’re at it (yes, walking is exercise too).
Griffith Park in Los Angeles
There’s a great active meditative quality that comes from taking a hike. As a meditation newbie, the first and biggest challenge for me was to sit still in silence and try to focus. I find walking it out a helpful way to ease into the stillness because, naturally, through the motion of your feet and body moving, you will organically enter a calm mind-space and it won’t feel at all forced. Your breath will enter a natural rhythm with your step and slowly any stress will melt away. The ensuing sense of reflection that comes through the quiet ends up heightening not only your awareness for the beauty of the nature that surrounds your hike (reality check: there’s a world beyond the one that’s in your head) but your flow of creativity as well. I recently lived in Los Angeles for a few months to kick-start a new career adventure, and although the city is notorious for being an intense driving city, my regular hikes at Griffith Park always proved to be quite inspirational. A recent study from Stanford University actually showed the positive effects of walking on creative thinking; so there you go, go on a hike, and you could unlock the next multi-million dollar bestseller. Or, maybe just a really brilliant bathroom hack.
Villa Jovis in Capri
My favorite hiking experience happened on a vacation to Capri a couple of years ago. While my friend went for a dip in the Tyrrhenian Sea, I went for what I thought was a casual stroll around town to Villa Jovis (which turned out to be the second highest peak in Capri). This was one of those rare moments where I didn’t research where I was and the result was the most incredible unexpected hike.
Ancient baths, ruins in Villa Jovis
From the sweeping views of the Gulf of Naples to the adorable mom and pop cafes tucked in around the bend, and of course, the inspiring ruins of Villa Jovis that houses a number of stunning ancient baths, I was in complete awe, capturing every eye-porn moment on my camera. Each turn on the hike seemed like I was uncovering another hidden architectural wonder. Because I didn’t intentionally plan on hiking up a high peak under the blistering Italian summer sun, I remember thinking, “Do I keep going or do I turn around,” but the statue of Madonna that sits at the absolute top of the Church of Santa Maria del Soccorso in Villa Jovis was always in sight at the distance as an end goal, and so I kept going… until the very top.
Madonna statue at the top of Church of Santa Maria del Soccorso
Whether it’s a 20 minute hike or a 2 hour one, it’s an immense sense of accomplishment to reach the proverbial finish line with your own two feet. I ended up getting back to my hotel in Capri before sundown, miraculously not dying of heat stroke, and gloating to my friend all the amazing sights he missed out while he was at the beach. I mean, I wasn’t gonna let a humblebrag opportunity like that slip away.
Tips to get the most out of your hike:
- Turn of your phone
- Take your headphones out and let your thoughts soundtrack the hike
- It’s not a race so keep going at your own pace
- Take moments to stop and observe the surrounding nature
- Be aware of your thoughts and let your mind go free
When you get home from vacay, take the practice of hiking back with you. Your mind and body will thank you for it.
Read my latest on Istria, Croatia on W Dish.
2300 hours of sunshine a year, 3000 years of fascinating history, and a heart-shaped peninsula that spans 3600-sq-km. All the numbers in Istria, Croatia add up to an unforgettable summer destination. This spectacular part of northern Croatia is only 80km wide and 95km north to south, meaning you can experience the untouched countryside AND the Adriatic coastal paradise all in the same day.
I present to you, the 10 reasons why you should really go to Istria this summer:
1. The Oozing Charm
You can’t walk the shiny cobblestone streets of Istria without a giant smile on your face. If you’re a sucker for all things cute overload, do not miss a visit to Grožnjan and Rovinj. The latter enchants with intimate alleyways and courtyards guarded by friendly cats full of swagger, and sun-bleached apartments with freshly lined laundry. Rovinj’s coastal side is a prime go-to for the most stunning sunset views of the Adriatic. Meanwhile, Grožnjan is proudly referred to as the City of Artists, thanks in huge part to the abundance of independent galleries and shops as well as artists who summer here—Marina Abramović had an apartment in Grožnjan for years—and open their studios to showcase special pieces of work for sale and display. I couldn’t get over the fairytale vibe that the medieval buildings in Grožnjan give off—it feels like you’ve gone back in time and stepped into a storybook.
2. Dramatic Rich History
Istria’s civilization dates back to at least the Bronze Age and for most of its rocky lifespan, Istria has been under the rule of everyone from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarians. Up until 1947, the area was controlled by Italy, so it’s not rare that a walk down one block, you’ll pass by a Venetian square and some ancient Roman columns,and maybe an old Slavic church in between too. The mix of influences can be dizzying but completely enthralling. Don’t miss these deep historic traces in the beautiful streets and palazzos of Novigrad-Cittanova and Istria’s largest city, Pula, where the famous amphitheatre is located.
3. The Clearest, Bluest Sea, You Ever Did See
It’s no wonder the coast of Istria’s adoring nickname is “Blue Istria” as it’s surrounded by the gorgeously clean and clear Adriatic Sea. For sun and sea lovers, it’s easy to spend your entire vacation sailing from island to island and exploring all the breathtaking beaches. On the most southern tip of the peninsula, you’ll find a protected park called Cape Kamenjak where there’s sandy beaches, high cliffs for deep sea-diving, and flat giant rocks along the coast ideal for sunbathing, which are all near the cape’s Safari bar—a perfect spot for a post-sunning drink.
4. Taste the Sea
When walking along the quaint streets of the many coastal towns in Istria, you’ll see and smell all the yummy creatures of the sea. In a five minute span, I went from gazing at an enormous group of sea urchin by the Rovinj harbor to passing old town restaurants grilling octopus and shrimps, before arriving at the seaside restaurant, Puntulina where I devoured sardines and anchovies freshly pickled in lemon juice and olive oil (so fresh, they melt in your mouth!) while watching the bright orange sunset over the Adriatic.
5. Truffles! Truffles! Truffles!
The truffle reigns supreme in Croatia, especially in Istria where the coveted delicacy is unearthed. Eat it in honey, pasta, sausage, cheese… you name it, put truffles on it! Every year, Istria throws a huge Truffle Days festival where the special tuber is celebrated and thousands of eggs (the number is equivalent to the year, so this year there will be 2015 eggs) scrambled and cooked with 10kg of truffle goodness. This year the festival will be held November 7-8 in Buzet.
6. A Hop, Skip, and a Jump Away from Italy
Just across the water is Italy, making Istria a super easy inclusion into a grander Euro adventure. The Istrian towns of Umag, Novigrad, Buje, Grožnjan, and Poreč are less than an hour drive from Trieste, and Rovinj is just a two-hour boat ride from Venice. Since the Italians ruled Istria for decades, the Italian influence is undeniable—everyone speaks Italian and all the street signs are written in both Croatian and Italian. You can actually be sipping a cocktail, looking at Venice across the Adriatic while sitting at a rooftop bar in Savudrija. So amazing.
7. Less Tourists
The difference between Venice and Istria, though? Istria is still a bit of a hidden gem, so expect cheaper prices, much cleaner streets (the roads actually sparkle!), less noise, and way less tourists. Even in mid-August, you can still get away from intense crowds in the interior, “Green Istria,” where you can relish in the unspoiled countryside of hilltop towns, lush untouched parks and valleys, and vibrant vineyards.
8. Wine That Flows Like Water
One word: Malvasia. When it comes to a nice summer white, the fresh and crisp Istrian Malvasia is a no-brainer and my new favorite go-to. Everyone makes wine in Istria so expect generous offerings wherever you go. I think after a week in Istria, I roughly drank about 65 different types of Malvasia, Teran and Muskat wines, and I’m a lightweight!
9. Everything is Local
You can live like a local by taking part in activities with vineyards and farms, like harvesting grapes, cultivating olive groves, truffle hunting, and foraging wild asparagus. Almost all ingredients used at the restaurants and konobas (authentic rustic taverns) are grown right in the backyard, so you can actually taste the Mediterranean sun that nourishes the Istrian soil. I’m a sucker for bringing back local products—some favorites were the local sage honey and dried lavender from Histria Aromatica, fig and cacao jam from Zigante, and Ipša olive oil—to bring back the experience and enjoy back home.
10. Everyone is Family
Everyone is treated like family in Istria. At every restaurant and vineyard I visited, I noticed that they were all run by family members—young sons and daughters who worked the front of house, the tasting rooms and the fields, while the parents cooked in the kitchen or led the unique property tours—and so, they welcome you in as one of their own. That kind of hospitality is beyond heartwarming and stays with you for a lifetime.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
Read my latest travel essay on W Dish.
Nonna means grandma and nonno means grandpa in Italian. Three very special nonnas (and one nonno) came into my life during travels to Lisbon, Buenos Aires, and Sicily, all of which had profoundly lasting impressions on me.
I met my Lisbon nonna (or, avó in Portuguese) on my last day in the city. I was shooting a show in Lisbon and was walking around the Bairro Alto and Chiado districts to get some beauty shots when I approached the sweetest nonna on her front porch to say hi.
A simple “olá” later and she gestured to my cameraperson, Vanessa, and I towards her porch, which led to a stunning rooftop patio. The view of Lisbon from her rooftop ended up being the best view of the city that we had seen on the entire trip. While my cameraperson was capturing the scenery, I sat down with my lovely Lisbon nonna and had a full conversation... in Portuguese. Even though I don't speak the language at all, I somehow filled in the gaps with my rarely used French and casual Spanish and understood her heartwarming stories of her grandchildren who live all around the world and how proud she was of each of them. It was a totally unexpected moment and one that I will remember always when I think back to my trip to Portugal.
My burgeoning circle of nonnas expanded when I traveled to Buenos Aires. I was sitting at a public sidewalk table at the Feria de Mataderos Market sharing a large thermos of maté with some friends when the most adorable couple, Angela and Antonio, sat down next to us and so we welcomed them to come join in on our maté action. Angela and Antonio, who spoke beautiful English, shared an incredible story of how they had met and fallen in love over 50 years ago in Italy before immigrating to Argentina. My heart still tingles thinking of it. I’m such a sap.
Then, there was my Sicilian nonna to complete the trifecta. This experience happened in the middle of a roadtrip around the Italian island in the quaint town of S. Stefano di Camastra, known for its gorgeous ceramics.
Since my friend and I had just a few days to conquer all of Sicily, we had planned on only making a quick restroom pit stop in tiny S. Stefano di Camastra, but the beauty of the ceramics were too alluring and we ended up hopping from shop to shop, meeting a charming and hilarious nonna/shop-owner who insisted that we follow her down the street to her artist’s workshop to meet her daughter and see more of the family’s treasured handicrafts. What ensued was a feast for the eyes.
I feel very lucky to have met these amazing nonnas on my trips and I highly recommend that for a moment you put your phone, or itinerary, down to do the same.
Here are 5 reasons why you need to meet a nonna (or nonno) on your next trip:
1) A local’s perspective. They know the city inside and out and can offer advice and perks not offered in dated travel books. It’s the best insider's point of view.
2) Nonnas are badass. They've seen the city through unbelievable ups and downs and gone through s**t you could never imagine and they’re there to give you a first person recount about it all. Sometimes, the tales can be utterly romantic- a real life Romeo and Juliet like my sweet Buenos Aires nonni.
3) One-of-a-kind souvenirs. You can go to hundreds of museums (which you should) but you'll probably forget most of them by the time you get back and you won't be able bring an original piece home with you. What you won't forget and will remember fondly is the time you spent actually watching original art being made and being able to take a piece of it home with you. Shout out to my Sicilian nonna. So next time you’re shopping, become buddies with the shopkeeper, he or she may dig out a rare piece from the backroom just for you.
4) You bring back stories to tell and create unforgettable memories. By creating a personal connection, you have many more interesting stories to tell your friends back home than, “So one morning, I went to this really pretty beach…” and let’s be honest telling and listening to stories of visiting tourist sites can be kind of boring. But that one time you sat with a sweet nonna on her rooftop patio in Lisbon as the sun was setting will stay with you forever.
5) You make a new bff. Not only have you made someone feel cherished by recognizing his or her existence and companionship, you’ve walked away with a new friend. In general, when you let your social guard down and meet new unexpected people, you unlock truly special moments, but meeting a nonna? Ah well, a nonna is just next level.
Read my latest article “ROAD-TRIPPING ACROSS ISTRIA: THE LAND OF TRUFFLES” on Travel & Style.
Like Oprah (don’t we all wish we could start every sentence this way), I have a major love affair with the truffle and have always wanted to have a try at hunting this coveted culinary delicacy, and like Oprah, I recently got to check this off my bucket list on a road trip across the heart of Istria in the Croatian peninsula to Karlić Tartufi. Istria’s phenomenal cuisine draws in food lovers near and far—it’s not unusual for inhabitants in neighboring Italy and Slovenia to make the two and half hour drive to indulge in a meal rich in local Istrian truffles and make it back home before bedtime, cravings satisfied; possibly in more ways than one, as truffles are known to be quite the aphrodisiac.
Istrian Truffles 101
White truffles (Tuber Magnatum) are in season between mid-September and early October until mid-December, and considered the most rare of the bunch, fetching close to $4000 a pound. Compared to that, the $1200-ish a pound price tag for the black variety, aka the summer truffle, is merely chunk change. So, it’s no wonder that the white truffle is lovingly referred to as “Istrian gold” here; a nickname that was birthed in 1999 when a nearly 2 1/2-pound white truffle was found in the precious grey soil of the thick Buzet forests near the Mirna river valley by Zigante Tartufi.
Arrival at Karlić Tartufi
Although you can stay at the Karlić estate in the gorgeous Villa Maslina, I drove in from Rovinj, my home base for the week, and was met by the lovely Mrs. Radmila Karlić, who grew up hunting truffles with her father, Ivan. Ivan established the family’s successful truffle business in 1966 and the Karlić’s have been non-stop since.
Radmilla starts the three-hour truffle tour with delicious shots of welcome grappa and then, an insane offering of truffle cheeses, salami and pâtés, before delving into a quick session on how to cook her famous soft scrambled eggs with black truffles, which of course you get to binge on afterwards accompanied by a selection of white Malvasia and red Teran. With full truffle inspiration under our belt and in our stomachs, my small group of fellow Tuber lovers and I headed to the bottom of the estate to the forests with Radmila’s 22 year old son, the namesake of her father, Ivan, a third generation truffle hunter who at only 14 years old found a 200 gram “Joker” truffle with the family’s star dog, Blackie.
The Hunt
With the help of three trained and adorable truffle hunting dogs, we briskly walked through the woods in hopes of finding a truffle and as Ivan revealed, “the most important thing is to have very good dogs. You can have the best forest in the world and not find truffles, if you don’t have very good dogs.” Knowing the extremely tight competition of truffle hunting—I had read about truffle “mafias” poisoning other family’s dogs—I asked Ivan if he had any first-hand experiences of the dangers of the trade. “When you go to one forest and then another forest, some people get jealous because they think you’re getting too many truffles, like a few years ago, they slit other people’s tires… But recently, no, because you have to have a license to truffle hunt here and the license is about 200 Euros, so you don’t want to risk losing your license. In our forest, everybody knows everybody, so there’s no bad business but I heard in France, truffle hunters shoot other truffle hunters when they try to go to a village where they think there are more truffles.” So the key to keeping your truffle stash abundant? “When you find a truffle you don’t put it in the news. You must be ‘shhh.’ Why? Because if other people hear you find big truffle in which forest, then they will come to same forest. You wait ‘til end of season, then you say, ‘I found this truffle.’”
The Rewards
Luckily for us we didn’t have to deflect any competitors during this hunting session—the dogs excitedly uncovered two large red truffles, which are unfortunately inedible. From Ivan’s hushed “shoo shoo” in repetitive singsong to encourage the dogs to roam and sniff, to the instant adrenaline hit that’d come when it seemed like a treasure was about to be unearthed, it was nonetheless an absolutely incredible experience to see the art of the truffle hunt. Like the loving dishes that are cooked from the truffles at Karlić, there is so much love and commitment poured into the dedicated hunt that provides the truffles as well.
Extras
On the drive back to Rovinj, there are a ton of delicious pit stops to be made, road signs with marked oil mills and wine cellars making it pretty easy to keep your stomach full. My favorites stops were an enlightening olive oil tasting at the renowned Ipša estate (for the past five years, Flos Olei, a prestigious Italian guide to the best in olive oils, ranked Ipša the second best extra-virgin olive oil in the world), a visit to the god father of the biggest white truffle in the Guinness World Records, Zigante Tartufi, to buy some local truffle honey, jams and spreads for gifts, and a fascinating wine tasting at the gorgeous Kozlovic winery in Buje, just 10 minutes from the picturesque fairytale-like streets of Grožnjan. Once you’ve hit all the essential pit stops, you will inevitably need to end the day with a satisfying dinner. Super close to Kozlovic, I loved stopping by Stari podrum for what was my biggest feast of the entire trip. Expect rustic generous portions of home cooked goodness like buttery potato rösti, creamy truffle pastas and local Istrian beef cooked to perfection by a loving mother and daughter duo.
Now, what are you waiting for, go check that truffle box off your bucket list.
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
Check out my latest piece on Istria on Travel & Style.
Istria. Some have touted this vast and magical land of endless rolling green hills and sparkling clear waters as the Tuscany of Croatia because of the area’s renowned olive oil, truffles, and wine, and incredibly short two and a half hour drive from Venice, or just two hours if you’re a local. Regardless of its Tuscan comparisons, there is one thing for certain about Istria—it is a prime destination to spoil yourself rotten without breaking the bank (forget the Euro, the Croatian Kuna is the currency of choice, so revel in dividing all the prices by 5.5!). Whether you dedicate your entire vacation to Croatia or include it as a stop in a grand European hop, take the time to experience these 5 things you must do to treat yourself in Istria:
1. Tap into your inner architecture nerd and check-in to stylish luxury
The Hotel Lone is a gorgeous 5-star design hotel right by the protected Zlatni Rt forest just ten minutes from Rovinj’s charming and romantic city centre. Hotel Lone’s architecture is designed by 3LHD with furniture by Numen/For Use. The combination of fascinating design meets spatial functionality extends to its 12 suites and 236 boutique rooms, which are all uniquely designed and include a spacious balcony. I stayed in one of the “Jazz Rooms” that overlooks onto an infinity pool view of Zlatni Rt park and Mulini beach. What’s that saying again, once you go infinity pool view, you never go back? Included in the accommodations is the use of the Wellness & Spa zone—Finnish, Aroma, and Turkish saunas, indoor heated pool with hydro massage, gym, and the Vitality health bar.
2. Lose hours by the Adriatic Sea
Every pit stop along the coast that was made during my adventure in Istria, I was completely awestruck but the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. There’s something about being able to see right to the bottom of the sea that is so incredibly captivating. After walking along the seaside path (lungomare) in Rovinj, or nearby Pula, Poreč and Umag, you can easily arrange boat tours directly at the local ports, or by asking the reception at your hotel in advance. Make sure to include a stop at the stunning National Park in Brijuni Islands. The Brijuni Islands can be reached by boat departing daily from the Pula waterfront or from the nearby fishing village of Fazana. As the only national park in Istria, Brijuni and its 14 islands span an area of 736 square hectares covered in rare and rich flora, making Brijuni one the most beautiful archipelagos in the Mediterranean. Once on dry land, the aquatic affair continues on to the local cuisine with the freshest seafood—all the shrimp, octopus, anchovies, sardines, sea urchin, and fish you could dream of.
3. Indulge in Truffles at Every Meal
The truffle is of huge pride in Croatia—the largest white truffle in the Guinness Book of Records was found in Buzet, Istria by Zigante Tartufi—and is abundantly offered and served in restaurants and konobas (taverns) across the country. Known to be quite the aphrodisiac, the Istrian truffle was considered a special culinary delight as early as Roman times. There is no better way to spoil your taste buds than having all that precious truffle goodness shaved onto every dish. From decadent soft scrambled eggs, fuzi pasta in the local sugo white sauce, ice cream (YES, ice cream), salumi, soft and hard cheeses, and various pâtés, truffles can be incorporated into any dish and pleasantly devoured meal after meal.
4. Taste all of the wines
For centuries, Istrians have been historically tied to its distinctive grapes and quality winemaking. You won’t find a single restaurant that doesn’t boast its excellent wine selection while lovingly encouraging you to try all their Malvasia (fresh and crisp white), Teran (rich and robust red with slightly higher acidity), Refosk (quite strong and tannic with a deep plum color) and Muscat (dry and sweet desert-like). To really get the full experience and deep histories of the wines in Istria, a visit (or two, or three) to a winery such as the stunning vineyards and cellars of Kozlovic, one of the oldest winemaking families in Istria and winners of the Royal Wine and International Wine challenges, or Degrassi where just a couple of hundred meters from the cellar stands the oldest lighthouse on the entire Adriatic, marking the most western point of Croatia. After days of indulging close to 60 different wines in Istria, my favorite was a glass of Uroboros Malvasia at Trapan, which was incredibly fresh, yet had a delicious woodsy aftertaste, like a warm campfire. A truly unique and delicious white.
5. Take a spa break
Nothing beats a rejuvenating and relaxing spa break—you are on vacation after all! If there’s one spa stop you make in Istria, make it the Energy Clinic’s Carolea Spa at the Kempinski Hotel Adriatic. Pampering bods for more than 15 years, the Carolea Spa includes treatments like the popular Energy Clinic Signature Massage, 30 minute Anti-Stress Body Scrub, or my personal favorite, the Royal Hammam in the all-marble Hammam suite, which combines both massage and thorough body scrub-down with the traditional bathing rituals from Turkey and the Middle East. The Hammam’s MO is to cleanse, relax, and purify the body and skin. In true Treat Yourself form, the Royal Hammam finishes with a serving of Champagne and fresh fruit at the end of the session in the relaxation area equipped with waterbeds and heated loungers. To take advantage of the amenities, I’d recommend a 15-20 minute session in the dry saunas prior to the Hammam—either the Bio or Finnish sauna because their temperatures of 75C to 90C will give your body a really nice warm-up, and then a try at the ice cabin or Roman plunge pools post-Hammam relaxation. I know, I said that you probably won’t break your bank treating yourself in Istria but maybe you kinda want to? In that case, I’d add an Esensa Mediterana Golden Life facial, a lifting facial that includes 24-carat gold leaves (!) that improve your skin’s tone and glow by slowing down cell oxidation.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
