If you're going on a quickie trip to NYC, check out my Guide to Shopping and Eating in NYC for FASHION mag, where I break it to you neighbourhood by neighbourhood.
For a much-needed long weekend getaway, I met up with my friend Afsaneh in Montreal. Afsaneh was driving in from Pennsylvania, while I flew in from Toronto... in the middle of hurricane Irene. So needless to say once we reached Montreal, we situated ourselves at our comfy hotel (Le Place d'Armes) and more than lovingly (desperately) accepted our welcome cocktails.
In pictures, highlights from our Shop, Eat and Drink Montreal 2011 trip:
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| The Little Shop |
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| Garde Manger |
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| Le Bremner |
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| Pineapple Mojito and Raspberry Manhattan at Le Bremner |
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| Oysters at Le Bremner |
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| Homemade Donuts and Strawberry Shortcake at Le Bremner |
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| Apple and Brie Crepe at Chez Suzette |
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| Thrifting down Boulevard Saint Laurent |
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| Lawrence |
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| Eggs Royale at Lawrence |
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| Lemon Curd Donuts at Lawrence |
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| Lobster Tarte at Le Comptoir |
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| The Sparrow |
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| Spa day at Bota Bota |
As we were shooting b-roll around the Bairro Alto and Chiado districts, a lovely woman welcomed my camera person, Vanessa, and I to her home where she allowed us to shoot on her rooftop, capturing the stunning view of the city. While Vanessa was taking in the view, I sat down with the lovely woman and had a full conversation... in Portuguese. Even though I don't speak the language, I somehow understood her heartwarming stories of her grandchildren who live all around the world and how proud she was of them. This was a totally unexpected moment and one that I will remember always when I think back to our trip to Portugal.
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GINJINHA (PORTUGUESE CHERRY LIQUOR) SHOTS WITH RAFAEL AND NUNO FROM GLOCKENWISE.
Glockenwise are four just barely 20 year-old students from Porto. Along with being self-professed scumbags, Glockenwise have a sound that distinctively oozes, their idols, the Black Lips. So who better than a couple of scumbags to help us close out another Sharlene VS. episode. Here's how our last night unfolded in pictures:
ZDB BAR IN BAIRRO ALTO.
PLOTTING.
SANGRIA AND SHOTS FOR 1EURO. DANGEROUS.
WALKING THROUGH BAIRRO ALTO.
CANARIOS BAR
THE SCENE OUTSIDE CANARIOS.
PUREX BAR
BEFORE HEADING TO CAIS DO SODRE.
BEIJINHOS FROM TEAM SHARLENE VS.
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João
and Rui from x-wife at Vertigo
On my last day in Portugal, Porto's
trained over to meet us at one of their favorite caf
é
's in Lisbon, Vertigo, which is located in the vibrant shopping area of Chiado (my favorite store in Lisbon,
is located here).
Formed in 2002, x-wife are a staple in the Portuguese indie rock scene and were praised by James Murphy and Alex Kapranos of Franz Ferdinand for thier infectious dance beats. In 2009, they were nominated for Best Portuguese Act at the MTV European Music Awards which helped them to expand their fan-base outside of Portugal. Influenced by Suicide and Gang of Four, x-wife's latest album, Infectious Affectional, is currently available on itunes.
Roasted Vegetable Tostada
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While in Lisbon, I paid Buraka Som Sistema a visit during the second night of the Optimus Alive festival. Lil’ John, Riot, Conductor, and MC Kalaf were curating the Enchufada night (their label's namesake as well as Portuguese for "plugged in") on the clubbing stage, which included a supremely hot and fun performance by the group themselves, in addition to sets by Diplo and CarteBlanche. Before their thumping show (also the day of Riot's birthday), we chatted in their dressing room about the follow-up to their critically acclaimed album, Black Diamond.
PERFORMANCE AT OPTIMUS ALIVE
Formed in 2006, Buraka Som Sistema broke through with a fresh sound called "progressive Angolan Kuduro," that made club kids in their hometown of Lisbon scream and dance like hell. They are just putting the finishing touches on their forthcoming third album (slated for an autumn release) and unsurprisingly, they say the new album takes what you have known them for years up a hundred notches. Bring on the water guns.
PERFORMANCE AT OPTIMUS ALIVE. WATER GUNS INCLUDED.
The next day, I met up with the guys again at LX Factory for an on-set of the first video off their new as of yet titled album. The night before we had joked that the new single/video would be called "Up All Night" since a name still hadn't been decided yet. The concept revolves around Ustream stars and a sweaty club scene in a warehouse.
Here are some photos of our time with BSS:
VIDEO ON-SET AT LX FACTORY
CELEBRATING RIOT'S BIRTHDAY WITH CAKE NUMBER 3
THE CROWD FOR BURAKA SOM SISTEMA AT OPTIMUS
DIPLO HEADLINING THE ENCHUFADA NIGHT
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I know what you're thinking, "She's on the damn water again? But she can't swim!" I know. Not only that, but the captain of the catamaran actually gave me the reins and I full-on sailed along the Atlantic Ocean for an hour, with the lives of 4 people in my hands. I gotta admit, I loved every second of it.
Of course, I can't talk about sailing and not include this Styx classic:
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The Gift has been a mainstay in the DIY music scene in Portugal since the mid-90’s. For their 5th and latest album, Explode, they enlisted the producing magic of Ken Nelson (of Coldplay fame). The lead single “Made for You” (along with the video featuring Lukas Haas and Isabel Lucas) has become a growing hit in their native land and across Europe.
The Gift are originally from Alcobaça, Portugal and for our cooking session, Miguel, the resident chef in the band, and I set-up shop at a friend's home in Restelo, Lisbon. While recording Explode, Miguel provided home cooked dishes from scratch everyday, including items from today's menu. For our lunch, we made a spinach salmon roll, mango shrimp salad, pan con tomate (Spanish tomato/garlic bread) and a chicken chorizo stew, and enjoyed it all family-style.
Being the Queen of pastéis, you know I was beyond ecstatic to visit the famed Pastéis de Belém. Only 3 people know the recipe (when they fly, they have to take 3 separate planes) and 20,000 of these incredible custard tarts are made daily and they sell out each and every single day. Damn, best pastéis ever.
4 PASTEIS LATER
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My friend Pedro Ramos is a DJ on the best alternative radio station in Lisbon, Rádio Radar 97.8FM, so he was my go-to to find out about everything amazing happening in music in Portugal (he also happens to be a fellow food lover and had the best recommendations to offer). We met for lunch at Bica do Sapato, a chic space by the water that’s co-owned by actor John Malkovich, and talked music while indulging in grilled octopus, tuna tartar, and duck pie.
After Bica do Sapato, we headed to the Rádio Radar studio for Pedro’s shift where he arranged for an acoustic session with new Lisbon indie pop/folk group You Can’t Win, Charlie Brown. He also let me guest on his show, and to add a little more Canadian flavour, I selected and introduced Handsome Furs’ latest single “What About Us.”
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It’s no secret that I’m not exactly the most athletically-inclined person around- it’s fine. What most of you may not know is that I also don’t/can’t swim (long story, but I almost drowned when I was 8 years old and stopped swimming since then) which is both tragic and comedic at the same time.
MY SURF TEACHER, RICARDO PIRES
JOSE GREGORIO
So for someone who doesn’t swim, I sure as hell spent a lot time in the water during my time in Portugal. This included a surf lesson with Ricardo Pires (brother of Tiago Pires who is currently ranked 9th in the world) and a pep talk with 4 time National Champion Jose Gregorio. Since I couldn’t even pop-up on the sand (comedic), I basically just laid down on the board and paddled (tragic). At the end of the day, I was able to go into the ocean for the first time in my life and became one step closer to conquering my fear of open bodies of water and perhaps one day learn how to swim again (success?).
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After chatting with Orehla Negra, Mr. Phomer met us over at Carhartt, a streetwear shop that’s housing his latest F.E.A.R. exhibit. A self-professed “connoisseur of all things cool,” Mr. Phomer offered to take me around Alfama and collaborate on one of the many things he does so well… graffiti.
Alfama’s got an old village charm with its whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and churches with stunning views over the city. Mr. Phomer lead me to a spot via a high alleyway where there are remains of former baths and springs with various random graffiti spread across the vast space.
We selected a washed out pink wall for the "bombing" which meant it was done fast and dirty, and then we got the hell out of there.
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Lisbon day 1 started with João and Sam from the incredible instrumental hip-hop group Orelha Negra in Bairro Alto:
SCOUTING FOR A SWEET SPOT FOR OUR INTERVIEW
IN CAMOES SQUARE
ON THE GORGEOUS STEPS OFF RUE DU NORT BY TAPAS BAR 28
LISBON CHARM
Check out Orelha Negra's video for A Cura:
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My seafood prowess continued as we drove to Amado beach on the Vicentina coast to meet up with a local fisherman, Nicolau. Since the powerful tide was rising, we made a mad dash to the rocks to pick our lunch for the day. This activity required what can be a nightmare to many women—a wetsuit. Having to squeeze into a wetsuit is one of the most grounding experiences a human being can go through. Trust. Once in said wetsuit, we made a mad dash to the rocks where Nicolau showed me how to scrape barnacles and lapas off the rocks.
With bags full of freshly caught barnacles and lapas, I went to meet the head chef of Sítio da Pedralva, Bernardo Nabais. Together, we cooked up all the shellfish and had a beautiful lunch al fresco. Pedralva is truly a remarkable place— as soon as you drive in, you are met with a comforting silence and fresh air that smells of pine. If you’re looking for a relaxing escape with good people, I highly recommend a pit stop here.
LAPAS
STEAMED BARNACLES
SLICES OF ORANGE AND ALMOND CHOCOLATE CAKES
FAMILY LUNCH WITH MTV & SITIO DA PEDRALVA
In pictures, here’s how Day 2 in the Algarve unfolded:
LUIS, OWNER OF ALDEIA DA PEDRALVA, DRIVING US AROUND SAGRES IN A VINTAGE VW
OUTSIDE OF MY ROOM
MY ROOM/HOME AT ALDEIA DA PEDRALVA
VIEW FROM MY ROOM
SPECIAL THANKS AND LOVE TO HELGA CRUZ FROM TOURISM ALGARVE FOR THE BEAUTIFUL SET-UP!
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Once we finally reached Faro in the Algarve (about a 3hr drive from Lisbon), we went straight to Ria Formosa for some oyster picking with quite the dreamboat as our captain. Ricardo took us under his helm and dubbed himself my “Oyster Prince,” and so began a made for TV fairytale day that could only happen in the Algarve. Don’t barf yet — with the breathtaking view, fresh fleshy oysters in your hand accompanied with champagne, and a Portuguese Fabio carrying you over the water, you would utter the words “fairytale” too!
In pictures, here’s how Day 1 in the Algarve unfolded:
BABY OYSTERS ARE IMPORTED FROM FRANCE AND MATURED HERE FOR 1 YEAR
CAUGHT A SEABREAM IN THE FIRST 5-MIN (I MUST HAVE A TV HORSESHOE UP MY ASS BECAUSE OUR FIXER SAID THAT THAT HAS NEVER HAPPENED ON A SHOOT BEFORE). NBD.
CATCHING THE SEA-BREAM WAS EASY. HOLDING IT ALIVE, NOT SO MUCH
FAROL ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE
VIEW OF FAROL ISLAND FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE
220 STEPS TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
CLAMS COOKED IN OLIVE OIL, GARLIC AND PARSLEY
BROILED PRAWNS FRESH OFF THE BOAT
SARDINES IN GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL
MOJITO AND CAIPIRINHA ON THE BEACH
FAREWELL TO MY OYSTER PRINCE
NOSOLO AGUA SUNSET BEACH PARTY IN FALESIA BEACH IN VILAMOURA
LET THE FIST PUMP BEGIN...
ALBUFEIRA
Not pictured but greatly notable is "medroinio" also known as a firewater shot. It doesn't burn but it'll definitely leave you hot and not-so sober.
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Before arriving in the Algarve, I had a short stopover in São Miguel, which I used to buy as many delicious local products as I could.
I tried some St. Jorge cheese at this awesome shop where I also picked up pineapple jam, hot pimenta sauce and peppers, and a variety of teas (the Azores has the only tea plantation in Europe).
Strolling around almost empty streets in São Miguel at such an early hour, I was hit by an incredible sense of calm and simplicity. There's an old-school quality about São Miguel that I found very charming.
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I always try to squeeze in a couple of new restaurants on top of my old stand-bys whenever I'm in New York... here are some favs from my trip to the city last week:
557 Hudson Street
(212) 206–6444
Goat Town
511 East 5th Street
(212) 687-3641
Pulino's
282 Bowery
(212) 226-1966
Smorgasburg
557 Hudson Street
(212) 206–6444
CALiU has amazing Spanish tapas including one of my most favorite things to eat, Serrano jamon. At dinner with a couple of friends, we shared 2 pitchers of their homemade white wine sangria, the jamon, chorizo, mixed olives, papas bravas, esparragos con romesco, buñuelos de calabaza, and tortilla Española... when we split the bill at the end of the night, it all came together for less than $40 each with tax and tip. You can't beat that.
Goat Town
511 East 5th Street
(212) 687-3641
I really loved the warm and intimate vibe at Goat Town, where they serve all sustainable organic farm to table items. I started with the oysters, ricotta bread, and grilled vegetables before delving into my incredible burger. I left Goat Town bursting at the seams.
Pulino's
282 Bowery
(212) 226-1966
My friend and I were craving the comfort of pizza and pasta pretty hard so we had our last dinner in New York at Pulino's. We shared the out of this world mozzarella burrata and fried calamari, and I had the baked ziti and meatballs. All were prepared just perfectly. This was another night that left me waddling out. Love that.
Smorgasburg
On the weekend, I totally recommend hitting Smorgasburg, a Brooklyn food flea market. I hit the Williamsburg location on Saturday and my highlight was the lobster roll from Red Hook Lobster Pound. The shaved ice stand is also a must while perusing under the blistering sun.
When Donald Glover of Community, 30 Rock and Childish Gambino fame came into Toronto, I took him to Essential Beauty Bar for a manicure, of course (one of Donald’s favorite things to do to relax). We had a very lovely interview, so for all the hardcore fans who couldn't get enough, here's the full interview. Enjoy!