Being the Queen of pastéis, you know I was beyond ecstatic to visit the famed Pastéis de Belém. Only 3 people know the recipe (when they fly, they have to take 3 separate planes) and 20,000 of these incredible custard tarts are made daily and they sell out each and every single day. Damn, best pastéis ever.
4 PASTEIS LATER
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My friend Pedro Ramos is a DJ on the best alternative radio station in Lisbon, Rádio Radar 97.8FM, so he was my go-to to find out about everything amazing happening in music in Portugal (he also happens to be a fellow food lover and had the best recommendations to offer). We met for lunch at Bica do Sapato, a chic space by the water that’s co-owned by actor John Malkovich, and talked music while indulging in grilled octopus, tuna tartar, and duck pie.
After Bica do Sapato, we headed to the Rádio Radar studio for Pedro’s shift where he arranged for an acoustic session with new Lisbon indie pop/folk group You Can’t Win, Charlie Brown. He also let me guest on his show, and to add a little more Canadian flavour, I selected and introduced Handsome Furs’ latest single “What About Us.”
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It’s no secret that I’m not exactly the most athletically-inclined person around- it’s fine. What most of you may not know is that I also don’t/can’t swim (long story, but I almost drowned when I was 8 years old and stopped swimming since then) which is both tragic and comedic at the same time.
MY SURF TEACHER, RICARDO PIRES
JOSE GREGORIO
So for someone who doesn’t swim, I sure as hell spent a lot time in the water during my time in Portugal. This included a surf lesson with Ricardo Pires (brother of Tiago Pires who is currently ranked 9th in the world) and a pep talk with 4 time National Champion Jose Gregorio. Since I couldn’t even pop-up on the sand (comedic), I basically just laid down on the board and paddled (tragic). At the end of the day, I was able to go into the ocean for the first time in my life and became one step closer to conquering my fear of open bodies of water and perhaps one day learn how to swim again (success?).
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After chatting with Orehla Negra, Mr. Phomer met us over at Carhartt, a streetwear shop that’s housing his latest F.E.A.R. exhibit. A self-professed “connoisseur of all things cool,” Mr. Phomer offered to take me around Alfama and collaborate on one of the many things he does so well… graffiti.
Alfama’s got an old village charm with its whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and churches with stunning views over the city. Mr. Phomer lead me to a spot via a high alleyway where there are remains of former baths and springs with various random graffiti spread across the vast space.
We selected a washed out pink wall for the "bombing" which meant it was done fast and dirty, and then we got the hell out of there.
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Lisbon day 1 started with João and Sam from the incredible instrumental hip-hop group Orelha Negra in Bairro Alto:
SCOUTING FOR A SWEET SPOT FOR OUR INTERVIEW
IN CAMOES SQUARE
ON THE GORGEOUS STEPS OFF RUE DU NORT BY TAPAS BAR 28
LISBON CHARM
Check out Orelha Negra's video for A Cura:
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My seafood prowess continued as we drove to Amado beach on the Vicentina coast to meet up with a local fisherman, Nicolau. Since the powerful tide was rising, we made a mad dash to the rocks to pick our lunch for the day. This activity required what can be a nightmare to many women—a wetsuit. Having to squeeze into a wetsuit is one of the most grounding experiences a human being can go through. Trust. Once in said wetsuit, we made a mad dash to the rocks where Nicolau showed me how to scrape barnacles and lapas off the rocks.
With bags full of freshly caught barnacles and lapas, I went to meet the head chef of Sítio da Pedralva, Bernardo Nabais. Together, we cooked up all the shellfish and had a beautiful lunch al fresco. Pedralva is truly a remarkable place— as soon as you drive in, you are met with a comforting silence and fresh air that smells of pine. If you’re looking for a relaxing escape with good people, I highly recommend a pit stop here.
LAPAS
STEAMED BARNACLES
SLICES OF ORANGE AND ALMOND CHOCOLATE CAKES
FAMILY LUNCH WITH MTV & SITIO DA PEDRALVA
In pictures, here’s how Day 2 in the Algarve unfolded:
LUIS, OWNER OF ALDEIA DA PEDRALVA, DRIVING US AROUND SAGRES IN A VINTAGE VW
OUTSIDE OF MY ROOM
MY ROOM/HOME AT ALDEIA DA PEDRALVA
VIEW FROM MY ROOM
SPECIAL THANKS AND LOVE TO HELGA CRUZ FROM TOURISM ALGARVE FOR THE BEAUTIFUL SET-UP!
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Once we finally reached Faro in the Algarve (about a 3hr drive from Lisbon), we went straight to Ria Formosa for some oyster picking with quite the dreamboat as our captain. Ricardo took us under his helm and dubbed himself my “Oyster Prince,” and so began a made for TV fairytale day that could only happen in the Algarve. Don’t barf yet — with the breathtaking view, fresh fleshy oysters in your hand accompanied with champagne, and a Portuguese Fabio carrying you over the water, you would utter the words “fairytale” too!
In pictures, here’s how Day 1 in the Algarve unfolded:
BABY OYSTERS ARE IMPORTED FROM FRANCE AND MATURED HERE FOR 1 YEAR
CAUGHT A SEABREAM IN THE FIRST 5-MIN (I MUST HAVE A TV HORSESHOE UP MY ASS BECAUSE OUR FIXER SAID THAT THAT HAS NEVER HAPPENED ON A SHOOT BEFORE). NBD.
CATCHING THE SEA-BREAM WAS EASY. HOLDING IT ALIVE, NOT SO MUCH
FAROL ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE
VIEW OF FAROL ISLAND FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE
220 STEPS TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
CLAMS COOKED IN OLIVE OIL, GARLIC AND PARSLEY
BROILED PRAWNS FRESH OFF THE BOAT
SARDINES IN GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL
MOJITO AND CAIPIRINHA ON THE BEACH
FAREWELL TO MY OYSTER PRINCE
NOSOLO AGUA SUNSET BEACH PARTY IN FALESIA BEACH IN VILAMOURA
LET THE FIST PUMP BEGIN...
ALBUFEIRA
Not pictured but greatly notable is "medroinio" also known as a firewater shot. It doesn't burn but it'll definitely leave you hot and not-so sober.
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Before arriving in the Algarve, I had a short stopover in São Miguel, which I used to buy as many delicious local products as I could.
I tried some St. Jorge cheese at this awesome shop where I also picked up pineapple jam, hot pimenta sauce and peppers, and a variety of teas (the Azores has the only tea plantation in Europe).
Strolling around almost empty streets in São Miguel at such an early hour, I was hit by an incredible sense of calm and simplicity. There's an old-school quality about São Miguel that I found very charming.
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When Donald Glover of Community, 30 Rock and Childish Gambino fame came into Toronto, I took him to Essential Beauty Bar for a manicure, of course (one of Donald’s favorite things to do to relax). We had a very lovely interview, so for all the hardcore fans who couldn't get enough, here's the full interview. Enjoy!
A day in Manchester...
Breakfast of champions
Walking through Salford
Salford Lads Club a la Smiths
Manchester music history walk
The Boardwalk
Shooting on the set of Coronation Street
Outside the Imperial War Museum
Big Hands
While driving to the airport, we made a pitstop at the famed Blue Lagoon. The drive to the Blue Lagoon hot springs is breathtaking- enormous scatterings of lava beautifully spread out on the landscape.
For all you fellow germ-phobes out there, the water in the lagoon renews itself every 40 hours, so don't sweat it. We didn’t have time for the spa services but just being in the water is a relaxing experience in itself and there’s mud stations around the lagoon where you can slather yourself in the soothing silica mud (the lagoon is naturally powered by geothermal energy, resulting in warm seawater that contains a variety of healing minerals, silica and algae).
BATHING IN BETWEEN TWO CONTINENTS
Nerd-fact: the Asian and American tectonic plates meet at the Blue Lagoon, which means when you’re in the water you’re actually bathing between two continents. Pretty dope.
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When I announced that Iceland would be the next destination for VS., every one I knew who'd traveled there before, said I had to go to Icelandic Fish & Chips. So as soon as I arrived into Reykjavík, I headed straight over. It's located right by the water, the fish is caught every morning, and it's prepared organically. I really dug the homey vibe and it is truly the freshest fish & chips I've ever had in my life. I recommend starting with the mango salad and then going for the ling or cod and rosemary chips with a sampler plate of all the dipping sauces.
Kaffi Solon is right by the best shopping strip in Reykjavík, so after you're done buying a Hand Knitting Association sweater and some rare vintage finds, I recommend a visit here for some culinary refuelage. I found this sleek space through Conde Nast Traveler and it's the perfect spot to hit if you're looking for a break from traditional Icelandic fare- Kaffi has everything from Indian to Thai to Italian. Whatever you order, get a side of the spelt bread (they make it with molasses to give it a sweet taste and chewy flavor). It will be one of the best carb gifts you could ever give yourself.
Seafood chowder with spelt bread
Tandoori spiced chicken tenders in Tikka Marsala sauce, with wok-fried vegetable, rice and fresh salad
Hot chocolate for dessert
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I can't wait to come back to Reykjavík if only to eat at the Icelandic Bar again. Expect traditional Icelandic dishes with a modern twist and a very lax atmosphere with an incredibly warm and intimate decor. Icelandic Bar is owned and run by three young friends and I loved that they were playing new music from Icelandic bands-- some of whom I recognized from the Aldrei festival. If you go, you must order the insanely addictive rhubarb mojito.
Here's a sample of our menu:
Smoked arctic char from Mývatn, smoked eel, parsnip purée, lumpfish roes with lemon, angelica cracker, dill
Smoked lamb carpaccio with honey, beet root jam, nut crumble, horseradish, melon
White cabbage, fennel
Smoked minke whale, beet root jam, angelica cracker
Smoked puffin, rye bread crumble, blueberry compot, horseradish in a jar
Seared minke whale, brennivín glaze, glazed root vegetables, potato purée
Slow cooked lamb shank in own broth, dill, potato purée
Salted cod, smoked tomato jam, bacon, rye bread crumble, tomato confit
IN CASE YOU WERE WONDERING WHAT A PUFFIN IS :(
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For our final night, we splurged at Perlan- a striking building with a restaurant on the top floor that slowly rotates every two hours for a full pan panoramic view of Reykjavik. This is the place to go if you're looking to treat yourself to dishes that dreams are made of, paired with equally exceptional service. The stand-out dishes for me was the cream of lobster soup and the juicy scallops. If you want to feel like royalty for a night, hit Perlan.
Here's a small sample from our menu at Perlan:
Amuse bouche goose carpaccio
Smoked trout "sous vide" with radishes wakame salad and wasabi ice-cream
Grilled fillet of lamb with green peas, root vegetables, fondant potato and rosemary sauce
Garlic roasted langustine with artichoke purré and curry sorbet
Duck with blood orange, spinach, seleriac, glaced potato and duck sauce
Scallops with carrots purée, cauliflower and pepper-chilly sauce
Cream of lobster with grilled lobster tails
