Day 3 in Photos, Raw and Unfiltered.
Read my latest Toronto travel guide for Trivago.
Recently ranked the best city to live in the world by The Economist and having the second coolest neighborhood (West Queen West) in the world by Vogue, Toronto is quite the media darling of late but it’s no surprise to the many who lovingly call Toronto home. Having lived in the city for most of my life now, I constantly find myself discovering amazing spots to eat, drink, and shop. Here’s a morning to night rundown of some of my old standbys and new favorites.
Start With Brunch
I’ve always been a sucker for delicious cross-cultural concoctions and Patois’ fun family- style Caribbean-Asian soul food is no exception. Playful brunch items include the Hong “King” Kong Waffle, which is a Hong Kong-style egg waffle, topped with macerated strawberries, whipped cream, drizzled Nutella and crispy plantain chips, and the Patois Eggs Benny with two spicy Jamaican beef patties, poached eggs, jerk Mortadella and the smoothest Hollandaise. This is definitely not your ordinary scrambled eggs with bacon and hash browns.
For a fresh farm-driven breakfast, head a little more west to Farmhouse Tavern, or its offspring Farmer’s Daughter, in the Junction Triangle. Both spots post their brunch menus every weekend on Facebook but expect their impeccably done staples like the Eggs Benny with bacon, kale, or gravlax and the Backyard Burger topped with a perfect sunnyside egg to be there and if you’re lucky, seasonal surprises like the fried green tomatoes that I still think of and salivate about to this day.
Bonus: If there’s one thing that makes the sometimes 2-hour lineup (yes, Torontonians love their weekend brunch) all worth it, is the Super Cheesy Bacon French Toast at School. Imagine gooey cheddar-jack cheese oozing to perfection.
Get Shopping
Born in Vancouver, OAK+FORT is all about classic, clean designs and to top it off, the price point is insanely affordable. Their new Toronto shop on Queen West features slouchy sweaters, well-constructed pants, and generous scarves for men and women in comfy shades of grey, camel, white, and black. These are pieces you’ll want to live in and wear every day.
For a well-curated selection of labels like Acne, Rag & Bone, and Isabel Marant, head over to Ossington’s Jonathan+Olivia, and then go next door and hit my favorite spot in the city for vintage designer pieces, I Miss You.
Take A Break
For a necessary caffeine fix, pop by any one of four Sam James Coffee Bar locations or the charming Louie Craft Coffee in Liberty Village. If coffee isn’t really your thing, an authentic yerba mate at El Almacen always does the trick.
Treat Yourself
If fancy spas and facials are a bit too intimidating but you still want to pamper your skin, a healthy Dermalogica skin treatment at their International Dermal Institute is the way to go. To continue your body prep for the evening ahead, there’s only one place to go to for all your waxing needs, The Ten Spot (several locations in the city).
Pre-dinner Snacks and Cocktails
New joint, Bar Fancy is just the right place to get your snack game on. With crispy fried chicken (served with white sliced bread and a pickle, no less) at $2 and half-price oysters, this happy hour can’t be beat. A few minutes walk away is OddSeoul where you can indulge in Korean-flared bites like bulgogi cheesesteak and spicy Korean chicken wings.
For a pre-dinner cocktail or two, head to the cosy Montauk bar on Dundas West. A gigantic chalkboard wall lists unique creations as well as every classic cocktail you crave of, like delicious Negronis, Manhattans, and French75s.
Time For Dinner
The warm woods of the interior and nightly fun crowd at Bar Isabel on College Street make for an inviting vibe. Mix that with the creative Spanish fare—shared family- style—which includes a perfectly grilled half or full octopus, jamon croquetas, whole sea bream ceviche, and the incredibly delicious cocktails, like the Baraganna with charred pineapple infused 1800 tequila, cointreau, padron pepper and sage simple syrup and lime juice, make it pretty common to want to spend the entire night here.
Another favorite is the newly opened DaiLo. There is so much love and innovation poured into each dish at DaiLo where old-school Chinese staples meet French tradition with a modern Asian twist. It’s an irresistible combination that results in menu highlights like Hakka Brown Wontons with toasted sesame oil, house XO sauce and almond crumble and Ponzu Beef Carpaccio consisting of 90 day Olliffe rib cap, yuzu soy caramel, truffle dwarf peach, pickled chili and fried garlic. While you’re at it, try the inventive cocktails at the LoPan bar downstairs, like the Ansei Treaty with sake, white tea and Dolin dry vermouth.
Grab A Night-cap
Head over to Kensington Market for no-fuss drinks and an intimate front patio at Ronnie’s where hours will, no doubt, fly by in the best way possible as you catch up with friends while the drinks never stop flowing. Then, roll over to the perpetually packed and always fun hidden haven that is Cold Tea for a nightcap.
Late Night Munchies
Chinatown is basically a hop, skip and a jump away from Kensington Market and after the bars have closed, a feeling of “hangry” eventually ensues, making a visit to Rol San for some greasy/amazing dim sum a must. For run and go munchies, join the line-up at Poutini’s for poutine that always hits the spot. You will thank yourself tomorrow.
The best way to celebrate the Lunar New Year, of course, is with non-stop feasting. Here's my mom’s recipe for new year's Sweet Sesame Ma Fah Cookies, which is a total labor of love but an annual tradition of pain (making them) and pleasure (eating them).
SWEET SESAME MA FAH COOKIES
These sweet sesame cookies called Ma Fah are a Chinese New Year tradition with my family. Ever since I was a kid as soon as it was almost the Lunar New Year, I’d have to sit my little butt down for hours to help my mom wrap and fold a multitude of treats including these cookies, which closely resembles the taste of sugar cookies… except to up the indulgence, they’re deep fried into golden deliciousness rather than baked. It’s a bit of a labor of love to make but the ingredients are simple and can be easily halved, although you might not want to as it’s way too easy to munch down tens of crispy Ma Fah’s in one sitting. I can’t imagine a New Year’s without them.
COOK TIME:
2 Hours
YIELD:
5 Dozen
INGREDIENTS:
3 cups flour (for the cookies)
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup sesame seeds (optional)
1/3 cup Crisco shortening
1 cup lukewarm filtered water
½ cup flour (for rolling)
3-4 cups vegetable oil (for frying)
DIRECTIONS:
1. Mix together all the dry ingredients with the Crisco shortening.
2. Add in the water and combine until it becomes a smooth dough.
3. Break up the dough into two balls and wrap each ball in plastic or wax paper.
4. Refrigerate for approximately 30 minutes.
5. Take out one ball from the fridge and roll onto a floured board with a rolling pin until it’s the thinness of pasta. If you have a pasta maker, you can use that instead of a rolling pin. Make sure to sprinkle enough flour as needed while rolling so that the dough doesn’t stick.
6. Cut along the edges of the rolled out dough to make a neat rectangle.
7. Fold the bottom of the rectangle up two inches and use a sharp knife to cut along the edge to make one long strip.
8. Repeat until all the dough has been cut into long strips.
9. Take one strip and start at the edge. Use a knife to cut 3 slits half-way up the dough about 7mm apart and on the fourth cut, make a complete cut to create a small rectangle.
10. Unfold the small rectangle and take the top and tuck it through the middle slit, creating a twisted shape.
11. Repeat until all the strips have been cut into small rectangles with 3 slits and made into twists.
12. On high, heat up a wok or stainless steal Dutch pot with vegetable oil (add more or less oil depending on the size of your pot; you want the amount of oil to reach half way) for about 2 minutes.
13. Turn down the heat to medium and gently add about 5 cookies into the oil.
14. Use a stainless steel skimmer or strainer utensil to carefully flip the cookie in the oil so that it’s golden on each side (approximately 3 minutes).
15. Scoop cookies up with your strainer utensil and onto a tray lined with paper towel to soak up the oil. Let cool completely.
16. Repeat until all cookies have been fried.
17. Turn down the heat whenever oil starts to smoke.
18. Store cookies in an airtight container for up to a month.
Read my latest L.A. travel guide on Trivago.
Being an East-coaster I find that there is no better time than the winter to head straight to sunny Los Angeles. The palm trees, the ocean, the endless fun, the delicious eats… it’s easy to call L.A. home, if even for just a few days.
WHAT TO SEE
Soaking up quality comedy is a must. Whether it’s an improv show at Upright Citizens Brigade, which Parks and Rec and SNL alumni Amy Poehler helped co-found, or a stand-up show on Monday nights at The Virgil, which recently brought out Zach Galifianakis and David Cross as special guests, it’s a guaranteed good time that rarely sets you back more than 6 bucks. If you happen to be in town the second Sunday of the month, checking out the Rose Bowl Flea Market is the best eye candy. You will be met with hundreds of rare, beautiful, strange, eclectic furniture and clothing finds. Expect to spend a few hours here rubbing elbows with locals all around looking for a one of a kind steal.
WHAT TO DO
One of my favorite things to do in L.A. is hiking—on the west side go to Paseo Miramar and on the east, Griffith Park—because you get to enjoy the incredible nature while getting a workout in, all for free. If you hike Griffith, try to sneak in a pitstop at the Observatory for sweeping views of the city and while you’re at it, make sure to grab a bite at the adorable Trails Café. A short road trip—about 2 hours—to the geological wonder of the Joshua Tree National Park in the desert is also absolutely worthwhile for the nature-junkie if you have a day to spare.
WHAT TO EAT
With so much to see and do in Los Angeles, you should have a full stomach at all points of the day. I like to start with brunch downtown either at L.A. Chapter at The Ace Hotel or Daily Dose Café which is located in the prettiest alleyway, or if I happen to start my day in the west side, the weekend all you can eat brunch with endless pancakes (including the best fried chicken combo) at A-Frame in Culver City is the go-to. Once you’ve finally digested the epic brunch, you will want to have dinner at another one of Roy Choi’s restaurants at The Line Hotel, either at the gorgeous greenhouse vibe of The Commissary or the hip Korean comfort food of POT, and end with an extra dessert stop at the Café in the hotel lobby, which is currently serving treats like pumpkin whoopie pies and nutella buns. If BYOB is more your style, grab some wine at Erewhon and head to the incredible Escuela in West Hollywood for Mexican or Night and Market—either Weho or Silverlake locations—for the best Northern Thai food in the city (my favorite dish is the moo sadoong “startled pig” spicy salad with grilled pork, basil, lemongrass, garlic and lime, with a side of sticky coconut rice). No night is complete without a taco truck stop—I told you, you would be full at all hours of the day—in the west side, hit up Tacos Leos for the best al pastor’s and in the east, Taco Zone for amazing $2 carne molidas.
WHERE TO SLEEP
In Santa Monica, Shutters is a beautiful beachside staple that’s insanely comfortable and relaxing. For the more action-minded, The Ace Hotel Downtown is a no-brainer. The Ace opened early this year in the historic 1920’s United Artists building and houses the delicious L.A. Chapter restaurant, a coffee bar, and a fun rooftop bar.
LOCAL TIPS:
Los Angeles is vast so the best way to get to know the city is by exploring it neighborhood by neighborhood and you can’t deny the fact that it’s a driving city so keep in mind the following tips: After 6PM Monday to Friday, you can park in any yellow loading-only zone, and Fountain Avenue is the fastest street east to west between Highland and La Cienega.
The holidays can be filled with endless dinners, parties, and get together’s and by the time you have a moment to spare, the last thing you want to do is plan your own dinner, party, or get together. Luckily, Los Angeles is the perfect city to be in to escape cooking for the holidays. At any point during your hectic festive days, you can easily maneuver in these tasty spots for a little culinary, and let’s be honest mental and emotional, break before you have to run to your mother’s annual turkey curry buffet.
To help you out, read my latest dining guide for Trivago.
BREAKFAST:
Morning time is prime “me” time and there’s no better way to start the day off right than a delicious breakfast Downtown at the L.A. Chapter in the chic Ace Hotel. L.A. Chapter is by the same fabulous team behind my favorite brunch spot in Brooklyn, Five Leaves, and serves up incredibly flavorful dishes like the Moroccan egg scramble with housemade Merguez sausage, crushed avocado and a chickpea salad with a lot of kick, and the fluffiest ricotta pancakes, which are served with banana, berries, and a healthy scoop of honeycomb butter.
For a quick guilt-free/waistline friendly option, the rice bowl at Sqirl in Echo Park with Kokohu Rose brown rice, sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, special Sqirl hot sauce, black radish, French sheep feta and a poached egg will leave you fully energized and focused to conquer the day.
LUNCH:
Nothing beats a midday feast and lunch at Gjelina perfectly serves the purpose with its fresh California cuisine, including their celebrated pizzas, and gorgeous back patio. Delicious menu highlights include the housemade chorizo pizza with tomato, cream, fennel, chili and basil, grilled Kabocha squash with mint pesto and pomegranate, and braised pork meatballs with an addictive red wine tomato sauce. If you find yourself in need of a more central escape, then look no further than Ludo Lefebvre’s Petit Trois in West Hollywood. This intimate bistro (bar seating, no reservations, and credit card only) is an ode to classic French cuisine and bar à la carte dining in Paris. The entire concise menu—which includes one of the best escargot in Los Angeles, classic steak frites, and buttered brioche crumbed chicken leg—is a must-eat so make sure to have at least a couple of pals with you to share with! For a solo adventure, I like to head to Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. and hop from vendor to vendor. There’s the all day breakfast sandwich at Eggslut that’s so incredible that people wait in line hours for, one of the best burgers and fries you will ever eat at Belcampo Meat Co., Valerie Confection’s flaky fleur de sel caramel croissants, and Better Booch’s inventive kombucha bar— and that’s only a smattering of GCM’s offerings.
DINNER:
Located in Koreatown’s trendy The Line Hotel, The Commissary was my favorite new restaurant of 2014. Roy Choi’s delicious venture is housed in a stunning greenhouse with a loving focus on locally grown vegetables and fruits. Every bite of the roasted carrots, French dip sandwich, sea bass with green peas, perfectly cooked scallops—seriously, I would recommend trying to order every item on the menu—will leave you wanting to come back each and every night. If you’re craving for innovative Italian food, I love Bestia. Located in the Arts District downtown in an industrial warehouse-like space that’s always packed with a fun crowd, Bestia’s menu is equally ambitious as it is creative. With a menu that doesn’t have a single dud, Bestia is ideal for a large group because it means you can order everything for the table—don’t miss out on the housemade salumi board, spicy ‘nduja pizza, and cavatelli alla norcina with black truffles. Lastly, for a cozy, homey vibe head to Son of Gun. You and your guests will feel like you’ve just stepped into an East coast fish house and although Son of a Gun caters mostly to the passionate seafood lover (don’t miss out on the shrimp toast sandwich, lobster roll, and smoked mahi fish dip), the fried chicken sandwich with pickle slaw and rooster hot-sauced aioli will leave your carnivorous side more than satisfied and eager
for a return visit.
Vucciria Market
A few weeks ago, I embarked on an impromptu road trip to Sicily (via Rome) and am still in a arancini haze as I type this back home. If you’ve already done the major Italian big hitters like Florence, Venice, and Rome or want to avoid the crammed summer tourist crowd, I highly recommend a trip to Sicily. The island itself is not very big so if you rent a car and have a week to spare you can experience three stunning seas (Mediterranean, Tyrrhenian and Ionian) by driving the circumference and at your own pace, take in the expansive vistas, numerous UNESCO sights, gorgeous beaches, and insanely fun nightlife… oh, and the food. The stomach-splitting/I probably came home 20 pounds heavier, and would do it all over again, comforting, delicious food.
Here is my Sicilian adventure in photos (basically, how I ate through the island and rolled back home):
After a quick flight from Rome to Palermo, we settled into our apartment near Piazza Paprieto. I loved peeking below the streets on our balcony and seeing the grittiness of the old buildings paired with beautiful flowers and greenery.
The view of the Cathedral from my bedroom.
For our first dinner in Palermo, my friend Nancy and I hit Osteria dei Vespri in Piazza Croce. On top of the fresh red prawn pasta and dessert that we ordered (definitely get the cassatella which is warm silky ricotta in a pastry folded like an envelope), the restaurant treated us to a creamy goat cheese soufflé and a tiny mason jar that contained what appeared to be a shepherd's pie-like concoction to start and then a mandarin cream tart and an assortment of petit fours, all on the house (now, that's Sicilian hospitality) to end our incredible meal.
Just around the corner is Vucciria Market- a chill spot where people come to buy cheap drinks (2 Euros each) and enjoy them on the street while meeting new friends. On any given night, you might run into the most amazing woman who goes around taking party pics. She will also give you the best dance of your life. Here she is in mid-performance.
The next day, we hit up Bar Touring for their well-known arancine bomba. The classic arancini is basically ragu stuffed into a saffron-scented rice bomb that's breaded and fried into carb coma deliciousness. It's called bomba for a reason- it's about the size of my head,
Obviously, I didn't let that stop me from ordering my favorite - a brioche con gelato. Smooth fresh pistachio gelato stuffed into a hot brioche bun.
Fully charged for Day 3, we hit the road early and headed east towards Catania, starting with Cefalu as the first destination.
Cefalu is a gorgeous seaside town and has several kickass beaches on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Unlike Palermo, you'll notice some tourists here and tons of cute souvenir and local food boutiques lining the streets and alleyways.
Back on the road, we continued east and hit Messina and stopped at a super sweet and quaint town called S. Stefano di Camastra that sold the most beautiful handcrafted ceramics. We had planned on just making a quick snack/washroom stop but was captured by the warmth and friendliness of the town that we stayed and met a sweet nonna who owned a gorgeous ceramic shop and took us down the street to show us her amazing workshop where her daughter also works, taking part in the family business.
With a bunch of cannoli's to tide us over, we continued on to Taormina which was, in my opinion, the most beautiful town we saw on our road trip. In Taormina, we got to see a wedding that ended with a burst of rainbow confetti as the sun was beginning to set.
In Taormina, you get to take in one of the three beautiful seas that surround Sicily, the cool Ionian Sea.
By the time we got back on the road and arrived in Catania (if you have a few more hours/days to spare, stop at Acireale for a thermal spa treatment), it was well into the evening so we went straight to L'Ambasciata del Mare (just behind Piazza Duomo). If you're going to have a frutti di mare (fruit of the sea/assorted seafood pasta), this is the place to have it. With the fish market (A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce) located right beside the restaurant in the early mornings, the seafood is as fresh as you can get it. We also had the calamari and the fried sardine that's breaded and stuffed with a creamy cheese goodness.
At this point it was about midnight and the last thing we wanted to do was hit the road again for another 3-4 hours to get back to our apartment in Palermo, so we signed up for a night at a hostel just a few minutes walk from the piazza called Agora Hostel, complete with a chill bar (below)
The intense A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce is definitely a sight to see. On top of the wheeling and dealing of the fish, the surrounding area is filled with colourful local produce, meats and cheeses.
The highlight of the trip was the absolutely gorgeous drive from Catania (make sure to check out Mt Etna, an active volcano) to Palazzolo Acreide, a UNESCO town. Filled with vineyards, lemon and olive trees, ancient homes and structures, and countless livestock (in a span of an hour, we saw fields of donkeys, goats, cows, and sheep).
Continuing on our UNESCO drive, we hit the white-washed walls of Ragusa.
As we finally pulled into Siracusa, it was around 9pm so we walked around the old port before stopping at a local roadside restaurant that had a couple of families enjoying fresh seafood and endless wine- the perfect spot for us to refuel before jumping back on the road.
For our final day in Sicily, we hit the road again, but this time headed west towards Sciacca. We were planning on getting some local thermal water and mud bath relief in Sciacca and Trapani but in our vacation mode didn't realize it was a Sunday, which meant all the spas were closed. No tears were shed though as Sciacca has an amazing beach, Sciacca Mare, to unwind on.
For our final feast, we binged at Santandrea in Palermo and made sure to order everything that contained Sicily's best ingredients- aubergine, tomatoes, lemons, sardine, swordfish, and chickpeas. Best dish of the trip was the pasta con le sarde- spaghetti with wild fennel, capers, raisins, and slow-cooked fresh sardines that melt into a ragu, that's then topped with fried breadcrumbs. It's not like any pasta you've ever tasted before.
To end the trip with a bang, we had to live up the Palermo specialty of fun outdoor drinking and hit Chiavettieri to start and then Garraffello (the other part of Vucciria) for a massive dance party. The perfect end to an expected trip to remember.
READY TO CONQUER DAY 1 OF OUTSIDE LANDS
As you know music and food are my two great loves, so I flew over to San Francisco, a city obsessed with food and so rich in musical history, to check out the Outside Lands music festival. 65, 000 people a day showed up to Golden Gate Park to enjoy the musical stylings of Jack White, Santigold, Stevie Wonder, and many more, while gorging on stellar food truck offerings like bacon funnel cakes, fried chicken ‘n’ waffles, and pork belly buns.
Keep your eye out on MTV News (Mon-Wed at 6:30pmET) for the individual artist interviews, starting this Monday with David Cross, and in the meantime, the Outside Lands wrap-up is up on the News site.
Here's some photos of the bands I caught up with and performances (and food) we were able to catch in between:
WELCOME TO OUTSIDE LANDS
MIC TRICKS WITH DAVID CROSS
TANLINES INTERVIEW
FESTIVAL FOOD TRUCK ACTION
THE WORKS: FRIED CHICKEN AND WAFFLES, MAC N CHEESE, AND CORN BREAD
BECK PERFORMANCE
VIEW OF BECK FROM THE MEDIA TENT
THE KILLS PERFORMANCE
OF MONSTERS AND MEN INTERVIEW
OUTSIDE LANDS DECOR
JACK WHITE PERFORMANCE
THE KILLS INTERVIEW
THE KILLS INTERVIEW
THE WALKMEN INTERVIEW
OUTSIDE LANDS CROWD
FATHER JOHN MISTY INTERVIEW
BIG BOI INTERVIEW
STEVIE WONDER CLOSES OUT THE FEST. MAGICAL.
For what was up on the style scene, check out my festival style snaps for Fashion Magazine.
PREPARING DEEPLY FOR THE HERNAN GIPPONI BRUNCH FEAST
Since the breakfast at HG was so kickass, we ended our week in BA with their massive 8-course brunch (for a deal at 120 pesos or about $25US per person) before embarking on our 17-hour journey back to Toronto.
Get hungry. Here's the full 8-courses in photos:
FLAKY, BUTTERY CROISSANTS OF PERFECTION
EGG BOILED AT 68 DEGREES WITH MUSHROOMS AND HUMMUS
FRIES WITH AIOLI AND RED PEPPER SAUCE
ALL GONE
SOLE TIRADITO, SWEET POTATOES & ORANGE, CILANTRO, RED ONION AND SPICY PEANUTS
MACKEREL CONFIT IN ORANGE OIL, TAPIOCA CHIPS AND MIXED GREENS
BLOODY MARY
BEAN STEW WITH PORK KNUCKLES
BEEF SLIDER WITH QUINOA BUN, PICKLES, CUARTIROLO CHEESE AND BACON
STRAWBERRY ICE, GOAT CHEESE, BALSAMIC REDUCTION AND CARAMEL-COATED SUNFLOWER SEEDS
ALMENDRADO AND DULCE DE LECHE
THE LOVELY LADIES OF HG
Thanks so much to HG and Fierro Hotel for an awesome end to our Buenos Aires getaway. Besos!
FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:
BREAKFAST AT HERNAN GIPPONI INSIDE FIERRO HOTEL
For our last two days in Buenos Aires, we stayed at the uber-sleek Fierro Hotel in Palermo Hollywood. Like the area it’s located in, Fierro is incredibly designed with super spacious rooms, a sauna, heated rooftop pool, and the most comfortable down-pillows (which rates high on my hotel must-haves). The complimentary breakfast is not like your average buffet of congealed eggs and stale danishes. At the Hernan Gipponi restaurant in Fierro, you get a full menu of freshly squeezed orange juice, celery & apple juice shot, tea, coffee, whipped yogurt foam (my new obsession) with frosted flakes, right out of the oven bread & buttery croissants, and eggs in any way you want it with bacon, brie, and hummus on toast. Of course, only I would be blown away by a complimentary breakfast, but seriously- dear hotels everywhere, take notice. A delicious breakfast with fresh ingredients matters.
VIEW OF THE GARDEN FROM INSIDE THE RESTAURANT
THE SUPERIOR ROOM WITH THE BEST PILLOWS
THE GARDEN FROM OUR BALCONY
SAUNA
HEATED ROOFTOP POOL
VIEW OF PALERMO HOLLYWOOD FROM THE ROOF
After settling into Fierro and shopping around the outlet heaven that is Villa Crespo, here's how the rest of the day enfolded through more delicious food and good company:
THE INTERIOR OF LA ESPERANZA DE LOS ASCURRA
PATATAS BRAVAS, GARLIC SHRIMP, AND FRIED CALAMARI
PATATAS BRAVAS
SERRANO JAMON AND ANCHOVIES
THE INCREDIBLE FOOD AT AMAZING PRICES STREAK CONTINUES AT ITALIAN JOINT, IL BALLO DEL MATTONE
HOMEMADE PASTA + BUENA ONDE = GOOD TIMES
HOW CAN YOU NOT LOVE A PLACE THAT GIVES YOU FREE BREAD AND PATE TO START?!
AT CAFF IN ABASTO FOR THE LA YEGROS ALBUM RELEASE. PHOTOS BY MALEN URZI.
DANCE PARTY
AWESOME COSTUMES
OH LOOK, ANOTHER CAT... POST-SHOW DRINKS AT LA CASONA DE HUMAHUACA.
FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:
JARDIN BOTANICO BY CARLOS THAYS
Here's Day 5 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
WINTER BLOOM AT JARDIN BOTANICO
ICE CREAM OBSESSED AT JAUJA (A PATAGONIAN BRAND). TRY THE MOUSSE DEL PILTRI AND CASSIS COMBO.
ENTRANCE TO THE EVITA MUSEUM IN RECOLETA
EVA PERON'S EXQUISITE STYLE IS SHOWCASED
CONSTITUCION NACIONAL JUSTICALISTA. GREAT FONT.
END OF EVITA MUSEUM. ALONG WITH AN INCREDIBLE STORY MADE ESPECIALLY INTENSE BY BEING HERE ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF PERON'S DEATH (JULY 26), THE DESIGN ELEMENTS HERE ARE SO INSPIRING.
THE LINE-UP AT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS FROM THE CROQUE MADAME PATIO.
AVOIDING ANY STRENUOUS ACTIVITY BY WAITING OUT THE LINE-UP AT THE DECORATIVE ARTS AT CROQUE MADAME.
CHEESY.
THE STUNNING FLORALIS GENERICA AT SUNSET.
SMALL SHARLENE, BIG MENU AT OSAKA.
RED LYCHEE MARTINI (MANGO VODKA, SAKE, LYCHEE JUICE, BERRIES).
TAKO ANTICHUCHOS (SUPER CHEWY GRILLED OCTOPUS, WOULDN'T RECOMMEND) AND KANI TAN (KING CRAB FILLED WITH PHILLY CREAM CHEESE- THERE IS A LOT OF CREAM CHEESE ON THE MENU WHICH I AM NOT A FAN OF BUT GOOD FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR A LITTLE AMERICAN INFLUENCE).
GRILLED SEAFOOD PLATE. AGAIN, PRETTY OVER-DONE, OVERLY SALTY AND CHEWY.
INDO SALMON CEVICHE (WITH CHILI JAM, LEMON, TOGARASHI, MANGO, AND COCONUT MILK)
DRINKS AT RIO CAFE IN PALERMO.
MAKING NEW FRIENDS WITH FELLOW-LIBRAS.
THE SCENE AT RIO CAFE.
NIGHT CAP AT CARNAL.
FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:
PALERMO SOHO BEING PRETTY
On day 4, we finally headed to Soho (an easy 20 minute walk from our hotel, Palermo Place, in Hollywood) by going down Honduras, past the train tracks towards Thames, and a 360 around the district back to Honduras- a route worthy of the Olympics. Here’s my shopping map (just zoom into the Soho area). You'll notice many shops have quite the boho output (lots of lace, crochet, chiffon florals, and gems) which is not really my kind of thing but amidst the Anthropology-on-acid-type brands, I came across some incredible prints, chic footwear, and impressive statement jewelry. My fave shops in Soho: Tramando (fans of Phillip Lim will love), Pesqueira (very A.P.C.), Blackmamba (the BA Helmet Lang), Huija (quirky and vintage-inspired footwear), and Chico Ruiz (sexy and feminine footwear). Honorable mention: Patio del Liceo (it’s outside the heart of Soho on Sante Fe and Laprida but absolutely worth the venture to check out the books/clothes/records/galleries. Just hop on the good ol 152 bus).
Here's Day 4 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
BREAKFAST AT OUI OUI.
SO FRENCH IN BA.
SPEAKING OF FRENCH, THEIR TOAST WITH HONEY INSTEAD OF MAPLE SYRUP.
BEAUTIFUL GARDEN SHOP.
MISHMASH OF GRAFFITI EVERYWHERE.
MERCADO DE PULGAS = INTERIOR DECORATING HEAVEN.
WISH THERE WERE MORE PLACES LIKE MERCADO PULGAS FOR AFFORDABLE + UNIQUE FURNISHINGS...
LIKE THIS RUG I MASSIVELY REGRET NOT CONCOCTING A PLAN TO FLY BACK TO TORONTO WITH ME.
...AND THESE POTS. C'MON!
LUNCH BREAK AT MEDITERRANEAN/FRENCH SPOT CLUNY.
CRUNCHY SWEETBREADS TO START, THEN LAMB STUFFED BLACK SEPIA RAVIOLI.
SALMON W/ CASHEWS, CRUNCHY CASSAVA, WATERCRESS + RADISH SALAD, AND SHRIMP SAFFRON SAUCE.
TRAMANDO.
PESQUEIRA.
COLORS ALONG PALERMO SOHO.
VITAL ICECREAM PITSTOP AT PERSICCO. GOT THE "CHOCUQUINNA."
A dulce de leche base with a bit of cream cheese with chunks of chocolate cookie/cake.
DINNER AT TEGUI (VEERS TOWARDS THE OVERPRICED/OVERRATED RANGE BUT AWESOME DESIGN).
MINI PANCAKE APPS TO START.
A DELICIOUS WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE CONCOCTION.
VEAL WITH MASHED POTATOES AND A POACHED EGG. THE VEAL WAS EXCEPTIONALLY COOKED, 90 PESOS (WHICH IS ABOUT $47).
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KITTY SECURITY AT LENTAS MARAVILLAS
By the time we pulled into the historic quarter in Colonia del Sacramento (a UNESCO world heritage site) it was almost 5pm, so we had about an hour to look around and take a leap back in time (P.S. you cannot take a bad vintage-inspired photo here) before witnessing the gorgeous sunset over the Rio de la Plata at the insanely delicious teahouse/cafe, Lentas Maravillas. If you get the chance to visit Colonia, save at least a few hours to chill at Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61) and enjoy the amazing view of the river and fantastic selection of books and magazines.
Here’s Part 2 of our Uruguayan Break in pictures:
WALKING AROUND THE COBBLESTONE STREETS INCLUDING THE PRETTY CALLE DE LOS SUSPIROS
ARTE MURAL TASCA DE S MIGUEL
THE LITTLE DOOR THROUGH BUEN SUSPIRO (PITSTOP FOR CHEESE, WINE, AND DULCE DE LECHE)
CALLE DE SAN FRANCISCO AT SUNSET
FARO (RESTORED 19TH CENTURY LIGHTHOUSE) BY THE RUINS OF CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO
THE CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
MADE IT TO THE TOP, IN ALL MY GLORY
GORGEOUS SUNSET OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA
IF THE SNAILS DON'T CATCH YOUR EYE...
THE AMAZING VIEW OF THE SUNSET OVER RIO DE LA PLATA FROM INSIDE
LENTAS MARAVILLAS OWNER/COOK/BAKER/ALL-AROUND BADASS, MAGGIE
ALWAYS GETTING MY HOT CHOC FILL WHENEVER I CAN
MADE WITH LOVE: CHICKEN CURRY ON THE RIGHT, SMOKED SALMON ON THE LEFT
LENTAS MARAVILLAS IS ACTUALLY MAGGIE'S HOME THAT SHE OPENS UP TO LUCKY PEEPS LIKE ME
THANKS SO MUCH TO MAGGIE FOR SHARING HER LOVELY HOME AND SENDING ME BACK TO B.A., FAT, FULL, AND HAPPY! XO
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THE RESIDENT SHEEP AT FINCA PIEDRA
I wanted to make the most of our week in South America, so I booked a day-getaway to Uruguay (via an hour Buquebus ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia) with The Wine Experience to a true estancia in the countryside of San Jose, called Finca Piedra. Dang, do I love my wine but in no way am I an aficionado in that realm, so knowing that Uruguay is busting through as the next big wine destination, I was stoked to find out (i.e. indulge in) what makes the wine here so special through a rad wine pro. Cue: Ryan Hamilton of The Wine Experience. This dude knows his vino and he’s been traveling in all parts of the world working the wine thing for years, so his stories are both crazy/hilarious and much more entertaining than some old stuck-up sommelier.
Ryan picked us up at the port in Colonia and we began our Countryside Adventure to the incredible Finca Piedra. Driving to San Jose, you are hit with a calmness from the stunning nature (the palm trees are shorter and much fuller than the ones you see in California) to the expansive fields filled with more cows, sheep, and horses you could ever imagine. Coming from a buzzing, smoggy city, of course, I’m highly amused by this and think it’s the best thing ever.
As Ryan pulled into Finca Piedra, I was instantly taken aback by the stunning 1000 acres of vineyard and farm. Jason, who runs the estancia with his wife, welcomed us with big hugs and proudly showed us around the beautiful space.
Here’s how the Countryside Adventure at Finca Piedra went down:
INSIDE THE FINCA PIEDRA RESTAURANT...
INFINITY POOL (THERE'S ALSO TENNIS, VOLLEYBALL, FISHING, AND GOLF IF YOU CAN'T SWIM LIKE ME).
SUPER CUTE ANIMAL FARM...
WEEK OLD BABY RABBIT.
ENRICO, THE RESIDENT GAUCHO COOKING UP A URUGUAYAN BBQ (MORE MEAT!).
KEEP ON, KEEP ON EATING. SNACKS FOR THE WINE-TASTING.
JASON PRESENTS THE FIRST WINE...
A VIOGNIER... A FRESH PARTY WHITE.
RYAN AND JASON GIVE ME THE URUGUAYAN WINE 101.
THE LOCAL FAVE: TANNAT (A BOLD RED).
RYAN SCHOOLING ME ON WINE "LEGS" (I.E. ACIDITY). THE LONGER THE LEGS THE MORE ACIDITY. AIN'T THAT THE TRUTH.
BBQ OF SOUTH AFRICAN AND BLOOD SAUSAGES, CHICKEN, STEAK, AND RIBS WITH IN-HOUSE PRODUCED VEGGIES.
FLAN WITH MORE CREAMY, STICKY DULCE DE LECHE. HAVE YET TO HAVE A SINGLE MEAL WITHOUT IT.
HOW REGAL IS MY HORSE FOR THE NEXT HOUR?
SOMEONE LOVES MY LEATHER BOOTS.
RIDING THROUGH 1000 ACRES OF GORGEOUS VINEYARD AND FARMLAND...
THE VINEYARDS ARE SLEEPING AROUND NOW, WITH A BIG GROWTH IN SEPT/OCT, HARVEST IN FEB/MAR.
My horseback riding session wrapped up at around 3pm and we made our heartfelt goodbyes to Finca Piedra (not before buying up some bottles of Tannat and olive oil). Ryan drove us back into Colonia del Sacramento where we could conquer the UNESCO quarter and watch the much talked about sunset over the Río de la Plata.
Thanks so much to The Wine Experience for arranging the perfect Uruguayan introduction at Finca Piedra xx
If you're lucky and have a few more days in Uruguay, you can actually stay in Finca Piedra and take in the full agri/ecoturismo experience. For more information:
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EL CAMINITO IN LA BOCA
Having gotten a dose of rural Mataderos life on the first day, today’s dedicated to exploring the major historical districts- basically, setting the base before spending the rest of the week reaping the modern ways of wining, dining, and shopping in BA. Now old pals, Madi from BA Cultural Concierge met us at our hotel at Palermo Place and introduced us to the extensive bus system in Buenos Aires (there’s like 200 different buses). We started with the 152 bus on Sante Fe and Carranza and made our way to La Boca, home to the colourful El Caminto, then the 29 bus to San Telmo, walked all the way up Defensa to Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Ma-sho), and subte (subway) to the El Congreso building. If you start at 11:30am, expect to wrap around 5:30/6pm.
Here's Day 2 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
CUTE OVERLOAD: BREAKFAST AT PANI
READY TO FEAST
THE TOPPINGS TRIFECTA: DULCE DE LECHE, WHIPPED CREAM CHEESE, AND PASSION FRUIT JAM
DULCE DE LECHE SMOTHERED ON A SCONE? YES PLEASE.
WALKING THROUGH LA BOCA (AN ITALIAN BARRIO WHERE TANGO IN B.A. WAS BORN)
THE OLD PORT
MADE IT TO EL CAMINITO
MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES DEDICATED TO THE WORK OF BENITO QUINQUELA MARTIN
EL CAMINITO'S COLORFUL HOUSES ATTRACT HUNDREDS OF TOURISTS AND I CAN SEE WHY
CAMINITO'S CONCENTRATED COLORS ARE ACHIEVED WITH THICK BOAT PAINT
VINTAGE APARTMENT ABOVE EL PARAISO
CATS ON A TIN ROOF
OVERLOOKING EL PARAISO
PROA MUSEUM (MAKE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE UPSTAIRS CAFE)
UNINTENTIONAL ART INSTALLATION? CUTE OLD MAN WATCHING TV INSIDE A LIFE-SIZED DOLLHOUSE.
LA PERLA BAR
INSIDE LA PERLA
WELCOME TO SAN TELMO
BLACK CAT GRAFFITI IN SAN TELMO
SAN TELMO'S CONVERGENCE OF FRENCH AND ITALIAN ARCHITECTURAL INFLUENCES
MERCADO DE SAN TELMO
JUAN ANTONIO BUSCHIAZZO, THE ARCHITECT BEHIND MERCADO DE SAN TELMO
DOLLS, DOLLS, DOLLS
VERDULERIA FRUTERIA
VEGGIE RELIEF AT HIERBABUENA
MUSHROOM RISOTTO
WARM SPINACH SALAD WITH RED PEPPERS, EGGPLANT, SPROUTS
FARMACIA DE LA ESTRELLA OPEN SINCE 1894
BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL FRESCOES ON THE CEILING INSIDE LA FARMACIA
PASAJE DE LA DEFENSA SIGN SHOWING THE GRIT OF BUENOS AIRES
AKA CASA CHORIZO (SAUSAGE HOUSE) BECAUSE OF ITS NARROWNESS
VINTAGE SHOP ON DEFENSA, EL BUEN ORDEN
THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF BUENOS AIRES, PLAZA DE MAYO
CASA ROSADA PRESIDENTIAL PALACE. EVA PERON REGALED THOUSANDS FROM THIS BALCONY.
HEAD SCARVES ON THE GROUND REPRESENT THE MADRES DE PLAZA DE MAYO
OLD SCHOOL WOODEN SUBWAY CARS MODERNIZED BY GRAFFITI OF TODAY
ALL ORIGINAL WOOD INTERIOR
PUT A BIRD ON IT... FLY-BY PHOTOBOMB AT AVENIDA 9 DE JULIO.
FOR THE LOVE OF STEAK. THE LINE-UP AT PARRILLA (PRONOUNCED PAR-EE-SHA) LA CABRERA.
MEAT LOVERS REJOICE, EVEN THE PLATES ARE COW-SHAPED.
GRILLED PROVELTA CHEESE WITH SUNDRIED TOMATOES
RIB EYE STEAK AND SHORT-RIBS (IN THE BKGD)
TOO... FULL... TO HOLD... HEAD UP.
For a packed day like this, I'd recommend BA Cultural Concierge - there are a ton of free and paid tour guides around Buenos Aires but I particularly liked the balance of Madi's insane knowledge and casualness. It felt more like discovering the city with a friend who happens to be a local, rather than a stiff city guide. We got along so well that aside from us both being around the same age (and Libras), we found we had a lot in common and actually did become friends. Love when that happens.
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